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8 April 2023

What makes an unforgettable meal? The time, place and company – and the butter

The cannellini and chard on toast roars with garlic, but that alone cannot explain its magic.

By Pippa Bailey

Last night I had a meal I’ll remember, if not for the rest of my life, then at least for many years of it. The occasion was that I was not, for once, spending my Tuesday evening sending this magazine to press, the Easter Special having given us a break from our publishing schedule. What better reason to spend a small fortune on small plates?

It was the first night this year that it was warm enough to venture out without tights – or so I optimistically thought, appraising the weather from inside. I walked the 15 minutes to the restaurant in strappy sandals and sunglasses, my nails and handbag a cornflower blue that matched the sky.

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