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30 October 2024

There is no hierarchy to good wine

It is difference, not excellence, that is the most enjoyable aspect of the grape.

By Andrew Jefford

Why are there so many wines? The choice is daunting. Is this complexity spurious? Must buying fermented grape juice resemble a course in medieval theology?

The appeal of alcoholic drinks is more emotional than rational. We don’t need them; we like them. Well used, they lift spirits, unlock relaxation, nourish friendship and aid romance (even if, when ill used, they kill us). All fermented products are complex to smell and taste – but none more so than wine. It is one of the most sensorially detaining substances we can ingest.

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