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23 March 2022

Our diets are international, but at the breakfast table, Britishness reigns

The fry-up occupies a special place in the national psyche – survey after survey names the cooked breakfast as one of the things we believe defines us.

By Felicity Cloake

When David Frost – a politician once described as having “the look of a man who’s only ever five minutes away from getting fried egg on his shirt”– went to Brussels for the first round of talks on the UK’s future relationship with the EU in 2020, he enjoyed, the Telegraph tweeted, “a delicious patriotic breakfast of sausages, baked beans, bacon and eggs before leading a team of 100 UK officials into negotiations”.

They’re not the only ones to confuse pork with patriotism; Boris Johnson’s Instagram account shows him tucking into a truck-stop fry-up the day before the Brexit-heavy 2019 election with the rousing slogan “Getting breakfast done!”, while the Daily Mail triumphantly declared Nigel Farage had “passed the test” when he was pictured shoving a bacon butty into his gob while canvassing for Ukip in 2014.

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