In my shopping basket I see a feast of brown
I have become more dependent on the staples of Englishness.
ByFood
The changing face of Lent
It has suited our capitalist, secular economy to relinquish the fasting but keep the feasting.
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The Seventies kitchen re-revolution
The decade that gave us the chicken kiev and butterscotch Angel Delight is back.
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How Instagram killed British food
Slop for the brain, slop for the tastebuds.
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The return of the boozy, leisurely lunch
There is a particular pleasure in scuttling off to the local dive with its carpeted loos and well-worn chairs.
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The pumpkin is not just for Halloween
At last, we are learning how to utilise this glorious vegetable.
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A digested history of British protein and its strict social hierarchies
The macronutrient has a physiological role as well as a cultural and commercial one.
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Do we still need salt?
The feted mineral’s long and storied history with humans is evolving once more.
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The secret history of strawberries
They are the perfect summer fruit – and the kitchen can’t improve on perfection.
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The Ozempic effect
Magic Pill, Johann Hari’s study of the rise of diet drugs, sheds light on our deeply dysfunctional food culture.
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Breaking sugar’s hold makes culinary pleasures even sweeter
Having reset my relationship with sugary food, I’m no longer led by my sweet tooth.
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Not all memorable meals should be photographed
At a Tennessee breakfast spot, I was so ashamed by the scale of what I was about to consume I…
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The wild, herby comforts of nettle soup
The lip-tingling foraged food is an ancient reminder of our right to live off the land.
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Could ultra-processed food be the new smoking?
A global study of nearly ten million people has shown the physical and mental health risks of UPFs.
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What is Brick Lane without bagels?
What the fate of a beloved East End bagel shop tells us about our changing cities.
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We eat piles of pancakes come Shrove Tuesday, but eschew the Lenten fast
From Welsh crempog to northern havercakes, pancakes were the last hurrah before an abstinence that was good for the soul…
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We should all be like Oliver Twist and ask for more gruel
Science has enabled us to rediscover a food with near-magical health benefits.
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Making Christmas dinner, I ponder Nigella and what might have been
I am transported back to Soho in the early 2000s, when a possible future rolled itself before me.
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The celebrity chef is dead
In the era of the post-heroic kitchen, the restaurant prevails as the brand over the celebrity’s name.
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Nadiya Hussain’s Q&A: “Some of my happiest moments happened during lockdown”
The chef and television presenter on Alicia Keys, the joy of I’m a Celebrity… Get Me Out of Here! and…
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