Galliano’s fashionable beliefs
The problem with racism and sexism in fashion goes far beyond one slurring fantasist.
By Laurie Penny Published 04 March 2011 15:01
The fashion industry is a vacuous sausage factory that minces down the bodies of vulnerable young people, tosses in handfuls of unexamined prejudice and squeezes out glistening parcels of expensive self-hatred. There is also, as Hunter S Thompson might have said, a negative side.
This week, after an alleged anti-Semitic verbal assault by the Dior designer John Galliano in a Paris bar, an earlier video emerged of him ranting about Jews and women. "I love Hitler. People like you would be dead today," he tells two horrified women. "Your mothers, your forefathers, would be fucking gassed and fucking dead."
Fashion people everywhere rushed to check their hair before joining the chorus of dismay, almost as if racism and sexism were not the stock-in-trade of their industry. In fact, it is an open secret in high fashion that black and minority ethnic faces - alongside women whose ribs cannot be counted through their rattan tops, or "fat mummies" in the phraseology of Chanel's Karl Lagerfeld - are not welcome. The few working black models accuse fashion houses of declining to hire them on the basis of skin tone - model agencies recently suggested that perhaps consumers just don't like looking at black people.
Diversity in fashion is going backwards. The recent fashion week in New York, one of the most multicultural places on the planet, featured 85 per cent white models, a proportion that has hardly changed in a decade. Recent high-profile campaigns have showcased white models in blackface, and when real black models do make it on to the pages of magazines, the airbrushing invariably lightens their colouring and straightens their hair into more marketable, Caucasian styles. Then we wonder why anxious teenagers across the world are using dangerous toxins to bleach the blackness out of their skin.
Frock horror
What should shock is not just the substance of Galliano's comments, but the fact that it took a man being caught on camera explicitly saying that he loves Hitler for the fashion industry to acknowledge a teeny problem with racism. The rabid misogyny of Galliano's outburst has hardly been commented on because, while most people now acknowledge that anti-Semitism isn't very nice, the jury is still out on institutional sexism.
The misogyny of fashion culture, however, exceeds its apparent conviction that any woman with the temerity to do more than silently starve herself is abhorrent. Silent complicity surrounds the rapes and sexual assaults that are routine in the industry. When the designer Anand Jon was last year found guilty on 16 counts of rape and sexual battery of models as young as 14, the only surprise expressed by fashion insiders was that his victims had dared to come forward at all.
The pearl-clutching piety of the response to Galliano's ugly outburst is a primer in tasteful hypocrisy. High-profile fashion colleagues eventually expressed discomfort with his viewpoint, if that's an appropriate term for the sort of drooling monologue normally delivered by a park-bench pervert with two hands down his pants. The problem with racism and sexism in fashion, however, goes far beyond one slurring fantasist.
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42 comments
Fashion is obviously not a very beautiful industry at all really, is it? One wonders what he thought he was playing at, going to such an extreme level of silliness. Even so, it is said that a drunken man speaks a sober mind.
Great article, as others have said the writing's on top form.
The fashion industry as it stands is guilty of all the crimes it's charged with (anti-environmentalism, sweat shop labor, sexism, racism, fueling eating disorders etc.)
But the left does itself a massive disservice by its common stance of outright rejection of fashion, of interest in clothes. Just as 'art' is not the same thing as 'the art world' and 'politics' is not the same thing as 'parliamentary politics', 'fashion' is not the same as 'the fashion industry'.
The left should understand, appropriate, and subvert fashion. Fashion and architecture are the only art forms that force themselves on our visual landscape on every street, with every person you meet. This is too important to be left to the current industry.
The fashion industry is incredibly creative, with thousands of talented people working their little arses off to produce fantastically original and beautiful clothes for people to wear. But supporting this dazzling pinicle of brillance and colour, there's a pretty sordid and grubby pyramid of colossal exploitation, low wages, and sweatshops, where people, little better than slaves, drudge through life.
It's a microcosm of modern society and capitalism rolled into one. A tiny, glittering dream, a lovely elite gliding through life, but, in reality it's sort of prison, built opon the gross exploitation of millions of people who never get anywhere near the golden top of the pyramid.
Clothes which look marvelous on a black skin with purple, blue, maroon or brown tones, but which would look pretty yucky on someone with a white skin with pink or yellow or light brown tones. http://www.dentaljournal.org/
well said laurie!
felt pretty sick by the 'fashion is meant to be controversial' defence too.
Redemption after the last two days articlesd, Welcome to the real world Laurie, but unfortnualty when it comes to questioning this sort of fashion world, no one cares,
Has anyone not noticed he looks drunk and cokes out of his tiny little mind in the 'videos'.. He is purely up his own arse! Deserves all that his coming his way.
Well said Writeon
Galliano is clearly a very unpleasant drunk in the Mel Gibson mode, and in 'vino veritas' displays some repellent notions. However, much like Gibson and his anti-semitic ranting when much of the movie industry (his career)is controlled by people of Jewish extraction, so too is the rag trade. He's cut his own throat and serves him right.
The fashion industry never ceases to amaze (and appall)... in an interview with Vanessa Friedman on the World Service this morning she, after personally condemning the comments by Galliano, declared she would work 'professionally' with him again.
Even if it offends personally it seems there is still no place (or desire) to stand up against abhorrent actions and opinions.
Laurie, I emtirely agree -
"The problem with racism and sexism in fashion, however, goes far beyond one slurring fantasist."
Whilst Galliano is successful and talented, a great political thinker... he is not.
His kind of cartoon job and life, is great fun, but very stressful, which why there is so much drink and drugs floating around in the world of fashion. Believe me, as reformed hedonist, I know; people, party hard.
Outbursts like Galliano's are rather schoolyard bawling, aren't they? My dad's bigger than your dad! You've got a great big noise, and people with red hair are stinkers! So there!
A drunken twerp involved in altercation ouside a bar isn't going to get a prize for political correctness, or subtlety, is he? Blurting out incredibly offensive remarks about someone's race or ethnic background, is a sign of one's lack of control, of oneself and over language. It's using really bad words because one can't think of better, or the right ones to insult someone. One grabs what one thinks is the closest and best one's that are lying around.
One, surely, has to look at the language used, not just on the page, but in the context it's used, otherwise one doesn't understand the utterance properly.
The use of vile and grossly offensive and exaggerated language by drunken twerps isn't exactly new, is it? I don't that Galliano is really a racist or violently anit-semetic, for that label to be applied to him, surely he'd need to have expressed such views in other contexts, repeatedly, and when he was perfectly sober and fully in control of himself.
In the United Sates I did some research in prisons, where I talked to people who, when in groups, spewed the most extraordinary racist garbage at me, stuff that makes Galliano's utterances seem pure as the driven snow, unbelievable bile and frothing venom. At first I was dumbfounded and shocked down to my cotton socks. I was often almost redued to tears.
Then in private interviews with the same people things changed radically. There were a few people who appeared to be mentally ill, but most of them were guilty of grotesque and shocking bravado to assert their status in the group. On their own their views were moderated.
I am not trying to make excuses for Galliano, rather on needs to explain and see this kind of outburst and immoderate use of language, in the proper context, in order to understand it properly for what it is, not what it isn't.
So where is the other racism in fashion that you refer to?
What can I say? Brilliant, but all rather depressing, too. To cheer myself up, I'll re-read that blistering opening paragraph over and over...
Brilliant article Laurie!
if nick griffin of the bnp was caught out making the same comments,,you marxists and commies would falling over backwards to attack him,,, you hypocrites...
Nick Griffen is highly unlikely to be so stupid to get coked-up and blind drunk, and begin braying at a Jewish couple a lot of nonsense about his undying love for Hitler, now it he? If he's got a shrine to "18" in the depths of his cellar, or "88" tatooed on his cock, I'm sure he'll keep that a secret.
Though I'm not a Marxist or a Commie, far from it infact, I don't think they require any more evidence of Old Nick's political views in order to attack him.
It's very sad, because the guy was a great designer, who had risen to the top, but such horrible outbursts towards Jewish people are completely unacceptable, by him, or New Statesman staff.
That Anand Jon guy looks truly despicable - bet he's having a great time behind bars, the short eyes little creep!!
Apparently crack cocaine has arrived in Paris, and Galliano and the former designer at Balmain are but two of the casualties thus far? Context is everything, but anti-Semitism is inexcusable.
I am really touched by your writing Laurie and I could not agree with you more. As a psychotherapist I work with the psycho-political and psychosocial wounds as well as attacks on our bodies on a daily basis. We live in a highly aggressive and violent time where people are excluded, attacked, tortured and disappear on a daily basis while at the same time we are told how safe and peaceful our life is. Galiano's comments in my view bring the institutionalized (un)conscious murderous hate towards whatever is conceived and designed to be The Other. The extinction nowadays does not need KZs any more and capitalist production has given us more refined weapons such as airbrush and other digital tools. The problem for me is not that we know there are misogynistic and anti semitic views around but that the mass of people just support those systems by just agreeing and running along....That does ring horrific bells in my Austrian ears. Thank you for your courageous and sometimes brilliant words!
Gerhard
the point is write on,the hypocrisy and double standards from the left when it comes to racism is mindblowing..jews seem to be a easy target these days to attack,,but dare not insult a muslim or all hell breaks loose..
dillon spot on... now lets not up-set medieval fuck-wits. The political-lefts love affair with this truly ghastly religion is breathtaking. What the fuck does progressive socialism have in common with religious fascism. Out of all the three desert dogmas, the left embrace Islam. WHY?
@ jan frank - of course it's a serious question but you have it all mixed up. I don't buy your premise (that 'black people wear entirely different clothes). i don't buy your generalisations about the colour of clothes either; now I'd say generally a black guy looks better in a pink shirt - but not always...the same with gold jewellery, but not always - and most stuff is worn by most people. Your question, 'So, if you're a fashion designer, do you design different clothes for people with different skin colours and get accused of racism, or do they all get the same clothes and you get accused of having no taste?.' IS lame. And nothing personal mate, but 'fucking' isn't bad language. It may be a profanity but it's not bad.
@ dillon & Luddite - shut up will ya? You show you know nothing about the Left with your comments. You should be aware there is ongoing debate about Islam and there is a broad church (boom boom) i the left about Islam as well as many other things. post now so long most people won't read it.
Does anybody out there know what went on before he was captured on film? I feel like there's more to this story than just a barrage of racial insults blurted out in a drunken haze.
I'm an ex fashion student. I was drawn to fashion design because I love to be creative and fabric was my favourite medium to work with. Unfortunately by the time I finished studying I was sure I'd never want to work in the industry. l became aware of not only the racism and misogyny but the sizeism, agism, ableism, the disregard for the environment and exploitation of workers in poor countries. It's a shame an industry so rich in creativity can't use it for more positive reasons. But it's all about the money, like any other multibillion industry, so ethics go out the window.
It's also notable that acts by the rich -individual or corporate -are always "alleged" -even if the evidence is there for the world to see.
Good article on the b*stard Penny.
he may love hitler but as he's a homosexual I dont think hitler would have been so keen on him ... maybe someone should inform him that gays died in hitlers chambers too!
you say laurie penny, his alleged anti semetic comments,,hang on. his disgusting racist anti semetic comments where clear to be heard on tape full stop,,and his defence about he was full of drink and had a bad hair day does not wash with me,,this man is a nasty,unpleasant snide who should learn to keep his filthy vile views to himself and i hope he gets made an example of when he gets sentenced in court..
'Luddite' you truly are tedious. There is no love affair with Islam, just as there is no wish to do down the Jews. The Jewish state commits some appalling inhumanities, which go largely unnoted in the mainstream Press. Muslim people commit some generally unnoted human normalities, which also go unnoted in the mainstream Press. The Left, perverse band of dreamers that they are, attempts to right at least two of these wrongs.
ps. where do you get off slagging off a religion followed by 1b people as ghastly. what's your religion.. 'i am f**cking the bees knees' loser
PS storming article. a self-hating industry run by self-hating gays for self-hating women. where has the art gone. bought.
i have a freind who works at bbc radio 5 live,she hast told me that the 5 live producers were very impressed with laurie pennys performance on stephen nolans show on friday just gone,,expect a phone call from the producers of question time laurie penny,,because i have been told they interested at getting you on as a panelist..
I take a lot of photographs as part of my work (no, I'm not a professional photographer and I'm not in fashion). Some of my photographs are of black people and I have noticed that they can (and do) wear entirely different coloured clothes. Clothes which look marvelous on a black skin with purple, blue, maroon or brown tones, but which would look pretty yucky on someone with a white skin with pink or yellow or light brown tones. So, if you're a fashion designer, do you design different clothes for people with different skin colours and get accused of racism, or do they all get the same clothes and you get accused of having no taste?
@ Laurie - Your turn of phrase in this piece is exquisite!
@ jan frank - what a stupid fucking question
laurie you're jacket is quite ill fitting if you ask me and beneath?
see what we are up against luddite,,these commies and marxists just dont get it do they,,what morons they are...
Pissed-up, and probably high, fashion queen says some things that he wouldn't dream of saying when sober. And that's news? Yawn.
@ Barny
"I don't wear your premise (that 'black people wear entirely different clothes)." You don't buy their clothes either, that's obvious. Any woman with taste - black, brown, yellow or whatever - chooses the colour of her clothes to suit her complexion. Colours which look garish on a person with a creamy pink complexion look stunning on someone with a really dark brown skin. My point is, should a fashion designer allow for this and choose colours to suit different people - and be accused of racism - or should a fashion designer pretend colour differences don't exist. It's a serious question, one that, in different forms, we all have to answer, whether it's in fashion or medicine or sociology.
I take photographs of people as they are, wearing the clothes they have chosen - I notice that people, if left to choose what clothes they buy, generally choose clothes that suit their skin colour. I myself (I am white) have hardly ever chosen to wear black T-shirts or pullovers, but now my hair has turned almost white, I increasingly wear black because I like the combination.
And I wrote that your use of the word "fucking" was crude, not bad or profane. Just as dismissing, in a short expletive sentence, my careful attempt to pose a serious question was crude. God knows what your dress sense is like but I wouldn't trust you to buy clothes for a friend, let alone design them.
Are the people behind the cash tills at Topshop mincing "down the bodies of vulnerable young people"? Are the buyers at Dorothy Perkins? Are the academics at the London College of Fashion who are using 3D printing technologies? Were writers like Elizabeth Wilson and Joanna Entwhistle?
I have problems with the industry, I have problems with sexism and racism within fashion that have not been alleviated by my industry-related Postgraduate degree course (though quite a lot of them were addressed) but I find it ignorant, hyperbolic and unacceptable to tar everyone with the brush that you use in the first paragraph. I think you're insulting the industry when you don't know the first thing about the people who have to deal with the knowledge that they're stuck in a system that they simply have to deal with. As a political activist you should know a little something about that so in response to the prejudice of your introduction I say shame on you Laurie Penny.
@ Barny
it's a serious question - we can all pretend there's no such thing as difference, but that's not quite the same as saying one is better than the other - which is what racism is usually about.
Just as there are different ways of voicing your disagreement - without being crude. You can disagree, that's your good right, but there's absolutely no need to use bad language
Fashion is part of the world, not outside it. Exploitation is par for the course almost everywhere one looks. Why do people assume that behind the scenes fashion is somehow as beutiful as the clothes? Much of the clothing we were is produced by people who are close to slaves, as the industry has moved into the third world. But, this is the character of capitalism, how do people think capital accumulates? It comes from exploitation.
What troubles me is that one takes a single example of degeneracy, Galliano's outburst, and then explodes this into a rant about the entire industry, drawing in more and more examples of perfidy on the basis of a very small foundation; which is both a gross exaggeration, trivializes serious issues, and seems rather puritanical.
Anonymount. I hold no superstitious beliefs, neither do i believe in devils or demons. I don't even believe in the tooth fairy. What i do believe, is we should always confront religious bigotry what ever it calls itself.
'He tells two horrified women' hardly horrified!! Two women goading a drunk. Besides isn't anti-semitism fashionable with many on the political-left. Sorry!! anti-zionism.
Luddite - shut up will ya? NO!!
'You should be aware there is an on going debate about Islam' There is no debate, progressive socialists have nothing in common with Islam.
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