Our disgusting appetite for anorexia chic
The press might not admit it but anorexia is in fashion.
By Laurie Penny Published 11 January 2011 17:51
Another day, another dainty dead girl. The premature passing of the French model Isabelle Caro from complications due to anorexia nervosa is as tragic as it is unsurprising. Caro, 28, was the face of the world-famous Nolita campaign, a poster project designed to show dieting teenagers the horrific effects of anorexia on the body.
After the campaign, Caro briefly became the darling of the shock press. Modelling contracts poured in, as did talk-show appearances and a book deal for her short, painful autobiography, The Little Girl Who Didn't Want to Get Fat. Being the "face" of anorexia won Caro fame, praise and attention - everything she had ever craved. Everything apart from life and health.
When Naomi Wolf wrote The Beauty Myth in 1990, she observed that the rising epidemic of serious eating disorders, which affect an estimated 3 per cent of young women in the developed world, was passing under the radar of the global press. Twenty years later, anorexia has become a global obsession.
One can hardly open a newspaper without reading another gushing interview with a teenager battling the disease, or turn on the television without seeing another gruesome documentary blithely illustrated with pictures of pouting, half-naked waifs, featured just before speculation over what Victoria Beckham didn't have for breakfast. The press might not admit it but anorexia is in fashion.
The anorexia industry, for which poor Caro was briefly the mascot, is cynical idolatry masquerading as public concern in order to sell magazines. The anorexic has become the famished saint of late-capitalist femininity: beautiful, vulnerable and prepared to risk everything to conform to society's standards. Hers is a self-defeating rebellion against the sexist surveillance of patriarchal culture.
Thinspiration
Over two decades of gory "awareness raising", real public understanding of eating disorders has barely improved. Nor have treatment standards - more than 50 per cent of anorexics never recover. The poster campaign in which Caro was involved backfired spectacularly because it was based on the assumption that anorexic women starve themselves to look more "beautiful", rather than because of any deeper trauma.
Naked pictures of her still appear on "pro-anorexia" websites, which are designed to give "thinspiration" to self-starvers. As the anorexia industry expands, people with less glamorous but equally destructive disorders such as bulimia nervosa and compulsive overeating are deliberately ignored - as are the many sufferers who happen to be male, poor, non-white or simply unphotogenic.
As a former anorexia sufferer, I have been approached to write the woeful story of my teenage illness, not once, but several times. I refused because the nation's bookstores are already overflowing with sob stories stuffed with grisly details of vomiting techniques. When I was sick, I used to read those books for weight-loss tips.
In a society where anxiety about consumption has become the defining collective neurosis, it is, perhaps, inevitable that the image of the anorexic should fascinate us. We are perplexed by the self-starver's ability to transcend the needs of the flesh and, at the same time, compelled by it. More importantly, the fashion for anorexia taps into an increasingly popular loathing for female flesh - and fear of female flesh is fear of female power.
One thing is for sure: the anorexia industry has little to do with concern for women's welfare. If we truly want to protect young women from the siren song of self-starvation, it's not enough to persuade them that "skinny isn't beautiful" - we must communicate the conviction that all women deserve to take up space, to nourish ourselves, and to be large and imperfect and unashamedly powerful.
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96 comments
Anorexia is a mental illness.
... an increasingly popular loathing for female flesh.....
Really? By whom? Personally I'm a big fan.
last time you said it was 2 stone
Interesting article
I feel I should respond to the male posters here who are insisting that men have nothing to do with women feeling pressure to be thin. I work almost exclusively with men and know a lot of them prefer thin. And they are mostly conceited enough to tell any passing female that she's carrying a few too many pounds. As though she should care. They aren't the majority but they aren't a rarity either. As one esteemed colleague says of his taste in ladies "thinner's for winners".
mr divine,i was weighed last night at the doctors,and i am still suffering the after effects of swine flu which could last for months..was 2st,now its 3 st.
LAURA, sorry, I guess I must be a bit thick, but 'willpower' is often an ability to weigh up mathematical consequences of risk. As a young lad, I could either smoke or put more fuel in my motorcycle, with me as always money won.
I well remember as I lined up a light aircraft for my first solo flight, scared, not really. I thought if the instructor would trust me with £50000 of aircraft he must think I was OK. So throttles open.
And clear and instant thinking enabled me to save someones life, I want no medals, I was in no danger, but I didn't sleep well for a fortnight. Guess I just have a logical mind, in spite of being in a wheelchair.
LAURA-- Many thanks for your explanations, but it doesn't go far enough. Just who the devil actually decides that this years 'colour' will be yellow, or grey, or blue. Who decides that skirts will be shorter this year, and just why are women so stupid as to listen to these views? Sorry but I still think the idea of 'fashion' is one great
'con' game, and what is in some [largely female] genes that makes them follow the crowd, and worse still. Follow another crowd next year! And pay good money to do it!
Thank goodness for Brian & Molly's measured comments on this article, begging for a sense of proportion and an awareness that one of the greatest threats to health in developed countries in obesity, not anorexia. Would be interested to see Laurie's response to their comments in particular.
Sianushka - thanks for the tip. That is easy isn't it? So, which one are u?
Anorexia turned me into an utter bitch, especially to my mother, I didn't mean to be but I genuinely believed she hated me and that I'd get something out of it. Also, hunger just ceased to really exist, I felt the effects but never the desire to eat that comes with it. http://www.greatrippedabs.com/
The only thing more bizarre than this article are the comments (or lack of comments) that follow.
Ms. Penny quotes a statistic that anorexia afflicts 3% of women in the developed world. While, yes, that is a substantial portion of the population and I understand that it is is a deadly and destructive disease in many lives, our society has MUCH bigger health and weight problems than anorexia. Can we please put this issue in perspective?
26.6% of the US population is obese. 75% is overweight. All the leading causes of death (heart disease, stroke, cancer) are proliferated by this obesity epidemic.
And it's only getting worse:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N5bc0sX47hw&feature=related
If we don't radically change our cultural attitudes and federal agriculture policy, this country is going to eat itself to death.
Shut up about curves, Mike, Axmad & co!
You're all as bad as the stupid Lib Dem Lynne Featherstone, telling women that they should look like Christina Hendricks rather than Kate Moss, or whoever the skinny comparison was.
Lots of women with normal BMIs and a healthy attitude to their bodies aren't curvy. Debates on what is 'natural' for women always seem to oscillate between these two equally unattainable extremes, and leave everyone unhappy with their size and shape.
Simple, you eat too much. you get fat, stick to 1500--1900 calories per day, and a beautiful butterfly will emerge.
Trouble is nature never intended humans to do office work--and nibble!
@DavidVintner:
"Stick to 1500-1900 cal a day" - yes, and there's a simple way to avoid lung cancer: don't smoke. Overweight people aren't overweight because they don't understand the calories in / calories out equation; they're overweight because they can't find the willpower to actually do what they need to do to lose weight. They're overweight because they have an emotional relationship with food. You may as well tell an anorexic that all she needs to do to get better is. . . wait for it. . . eat more.
@MrDivine: I think anorexia definitely does have something to do with the onset of puberty and reproductive capability (interesting how in ages past it seemed to kick in later, late teens rather than early - in an era when women generally started menstruation later, and when teenagers were less subject to social pressure to be sexually appealing / active. It's a rejection of womanhood - trying to avoid getting a woman's figure, trying to stay a little girl. I knew someone who got it after she was the first in the class at school to develop breasts, and all the other girls made a fuss about it. It can also be about trying to deny your own adult sexuality and desires, r a kind of phobia of pregnancy, birth etc.
OK,OK, So why don't you try and define 'FASHION'which for my lifetime has baffled me. 9O% of males prefer a more buxom figure, and the schoolboys we still are would rather spend time with a 'playmate'! So who is it that actually chooses the scraggy pictures to which you refer--not me.
Interesting article but am confused by the apparent contradiction in your having initially stated that Isabelle Caro's ad campaign backfired because it was based on the notion that women starved themselves to look more beautiful rather than due to deeper trauma, only to then apparently claim exactly the opposite. Or am I missing something?
I also wish that commentators on anorexia would address the issue of how to persuade women against starving themselves whilst at the same time acknowledging without encouraging the much bigger (no pun intended) problem with obesity.
Maybe the answer is to be less specific about individual eating disorders and to address people's distorted relationships with food, whichever form they take?
david, hard as it may be for you to understand – this isn't actually about you.
@Laura: Yes I think it could be a rejection of womanhood but then you have older women (in their twenties) doing it. Of course we can't be sure but I think you could be right.
Sometimes I think it could be a kind of 'rush' you obtain when you change your diet. Both of my psychotic episodes occurred when I was radically reducing my food intake (and increasing my exercise). There's a kind of a high that you get when you start reducing weight. And psychosis isn't necessarily a bad thing because some parts of it are great, far higher than you ever achieve with a drug. I suspect that's true with anorexics, that they are on or trying to achieve a kind of physical high, or it is an attempt to be partially psychotic.
People label psychosis as a 'disorder' but like I said at times you can not beat the 'high' and many of us want to get to the other side of the wardrobe/to break on through to the other side. There's a beauty there like no other, where you forget all there is in your life and experience every second of your being.
@Buckskins: I think Helen is pissed off with you because you make disparaging remarks about overweight people, of which I suspect she is one. She wants you to admit one of your faults. That's what will make her feel more kindly towards you.
swatantra nandanwar - Models aren't made to diet down to size 10. They need to be a size 6 (catwalk) to 8 (catalogue) on average. That's the size sample clothes usually come in.
Buckskins
Where does the article 'blame men'? Or is that you saw the article was about anorexia, was written by a feminist and therefore, without even bothering to read it - given your prejudices, you just decided it must 'blame men'?
@ Laurie Penny
Your photo in the Evening Standard is much better than the NS. Is that the difference between ex-KJB Russian oliogarch money and the NS, bearing in mind the ES headline was a puff piece saying how Cameron was reviewing the anti-bribary legislation because it might be detrimental to British interests?
Just kidding - stick it to them from the inside.
@David & Buck
This is not about us, (men) or sexual desirability any more than Vogue or Cosmo is.
Believe it or not, women have their own issues, though in many cases, per Simone de Beauvoir, they are as a direct result of how women were created and moulded by men and patriarchal society of times past & present.
It's a fascinating subject for those so interested, "the beauty myth" is a good book, (not nearly as scary as "the female Eunuch" :) but for a more general reader "Battlestar Galactica and Philosophy" is an excellent read, especially for the ideas around Six (the female robot/cylon) & Starbuck, the female combat pilot. [Wiki:http://is.gd/kzlcT]
It is not without a vicious sense of irony that you can't help looking at the bed that man has made for himself with women. It's no wonder we don't understand them.
This is simply about women desperately wanting to be appealing to the opposite sex in order to attract a mate to have children with, and to feel safe and protected and provided for. It is about human reproduction and the sexual imperative. Fashion, dress, appearance, whatever, is the means by which this is achieved.
How the media portray it is irrelevant. That is seeking someone to blame.
I find the statement of "sexist surveillance of patriarchal culture." also unhelpful.
1 in 10 anorexia sufferers are male.
Neither are they are doing this to attract a male. Most men I know admire a healthy woman with curves.
Not fat, not skinny. Healthy, that can mean size 8,10,12,14. I think it would be best to say, height and weight proportional.
Neither is this purely about self-image, self-perception and realisation and this is about self-worth.
There are many physiological reasons for this illness that cannot be discounted.
Singling out one specific as a cause it outrageously naive and ill-informed.
In terms of socio-cultural aspects, a 1,000,000 person study showed that the biggest social contributors (the physiological being by far the larger contributors) are gender, ethnicity and socio-economic status.
Also, the recovery rates are dependent on treatment by are over 75%; family therapy treatments have a success rate of over 90%.
"As a former anorexia sufferer, I have been approached to write the woeful story of my teenage illness, not once, but several times. I refused because the nation's bookstores are already overflowing with sob stories stuffed with grisly details of vomiting techniques. When I was sick, I used to read those books for weight-loss tips."
You nailed it. As a survivor, I don't want to see shows like the new "What's Eating You?" on E! It's just more glamorization. It's dangerous and disgusts me.
David and Buckskins:
Did you actually read the article? I think you'll find that not once were men's attitudes even mentioned.
Laurie knows full well that anorexia is about a world of things other than what men want women to look like.
If something is considered beautiful then it's not just about how it looks to men, it's about how it's perceived - both physically and conceptually - by everyone. Laurie's right - anorexia has gone from being ignored to being idealised and romanticised, regardless of the veneer of disapproval that's applied.
@NDS: 'I am undoing 25 years of personal development'
For starters there isn't such a thing as personal development. You are born and then you die. What you are in between has nothing to with development. It is just your life. There is no greater or lesser life, hence there can be no greater or lesser you. You can't become more than what you are so there is no development. Which also means that you are no greater or lesser than other people. So when you label other people as cretins you are in fact designating yourself as being a cretin. If you want to look at yourself in this way then by all means go ahead, for after all it is your life... YOU CRETIN.
PS imagine thinking that you have undergone personal development!
'You’re blaming men because young girls starve themselves. That’s plain silly. I don’t know any guy that finds an anorexic girl anything but repulsive'
Actually, anorexic 'girls', like all other women, are PEOPLE. Calling them repulsive doesn't help. I was one, and I knew I looked ugly - I felt like my ugly exterior accurately reflected my personal repulsiveness. I wasn't just dieting to get a boyfriend.
Anorexics, in general, are not starving themselves so that men will find them more attractive. It has nothing to do with you.
Women are often other womens worst enemies. Aside from the 'taking up space' issues etc, women are obsessed with other womens sizes. Fascinated by other womens weight loss stories and critical of other women who have gained a few pounds.
Buckskins.
I understand that as a man it's not easy to see how many women look at the world (and that's not a criticism, just an observation. I can't see the world through the eyes of a man) but you only have to look at the media obsession with the "beauty and fashion icon" Victoria Beckham to see women's ambivalent relationship with the anorexic body. Mrs Beckham (and most catwalk models) has the BMI (ie weight for height) that is typical for someone suffering from anorexia (and well below "normal"), and yet she has been frequently voted by women to have the "ideal" body and magazines are always keen to outline her "punishing" regime, so that you can have her "perfect thighs" etc. Unfortunately, although lip-service is paid to being healthy and happy, for many (but not all) women the old maxim that "you can never be too rich or too thin" is indisputable.
This article prompted me to dig out and listen to "4st 7lb" by the Manic Street Preachers. I'd forgotten how good it is.
In case you're not familiar with it, the lyric was written by bandmember Richey Edwards, who had been hospitalised with anorexia nervosa, and is really quite haunting. I don't know any better, so I like to think it offers an insight into the mindset of the anorexia sufferer.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qy2ebaAGMU0
Lyrics: http://www.lyricsdomain.com/13/manic_street_preachers/4st_7lbs.html
Also @Buckskins
Actually, it's a bit of a myth that anorexics see themselves as fat. What Laurie was describing is usual. Most sufferers can see how they look but "feel fat" because of distorted value judgements about that size - i.e. they know they are emaciated, they know that's unattractive, but they're "fatter" than they feel they should be and "need" to lose weight.
So now I know this 'womens' thinness thingy has nothing to do with men, just what other seriously bothers women? I thought they were allhappy together. Just as I can be discussing a racing motorcycle engine with my knowlegeable friends,
[ladies welcome to listen!]. But it's the engineering that counts, not our weight or height! Pass the spanners gal!
Victoria Beckham may well be on the thin side, but she is pregnant, indicating her body is functioning normally.
I'm reminded of teenage boys taking harmful amounts of steroids in order to get big. So long as health is the real issue, fine. It's just a look, an image, like the big bloated bodybuilder. We are all different, and that's great. It's just a shame that the words 'happy' and 'anorexic'have never been combined, side by side. A happy anorexic would make a nice picture.
Helen,
Although occasionally women ovulate with the kind of BMI and fat percentage that Victoria Beckham has, it's definitely unusual. She may be an outlier, but she may well use medication to induce ovulation, which women often do when they're too thin to ovulate naturally.
I know this is late, but I read this article when the magazine was published and want to thank Laurie Penny for another fantastic, insightful, and accurate article.
I'd also like to fully support the sentiments of 'fuckskins' above. Buckskins really has no idea about the experience of anorexics, or their families who have to support them.
Sam..
Very true, but some women are very thin naturally.
Anorexia is largely an illness of control, sufferers often feel out of control, for whatever reason and controlling what they eat, or don't is the one thing they can do to take some control back.
Hi Matt,
I wanted to say that my comments probably come across more confrontational than I mean them - I'm not looking to start arguments. My perspective is as a former sufferer and academic, which means I've spoken to hundreds of sufferers over the years but obviously couldn't possibly predict, understand or explain the multitude of issues involved for every one of them.
I agree that a significant proportion of sufferers are male, but I think that in general the overall balance of issues tends to be a little different in male patients. I don't for a minute want to give the impression that I think a societal obsession with women being thin causes anorexia. It is significant that the existence of anorexia predates the modern concept of thinness as beauty. However, current attitudes pressure women to be "good" and "successful" through food restriction. Eating disorders aren't diets, but they often begin as diets. Alternatively for some sufferers issues of self-denial and control predominate, and this is particularly common in male patients.
I think a lot of misunderstanding of eating disorders comes from the natural urge to explain things simplistically. Unfortunately are very much woven from a tapestry of personality, values, experiences and physiology and that just can't be broken down into simple maxims.
Interesting discussion, especially sans reference to Kenneth 'nothing takes as good as thin feels' Tong who fortunately appears to be an, albeit narcissistic and sick, exception to the rule that men like curves.
It strikes me that the discussion thus far has, in part, ignored some of the thrust of the article: namely, not whether or not being size zero is in fashion, but whether talking about, obsessing over, condemning, or crusading against anorexia has in itself become something of a fashion.
I liked the comment about the sidelining of Bulimia and Binge Eating Disorder, both by the media and by health services in many cases. It's certainly been my experience as a sufferer of one of the manifestations of disordered eating less focused upon by society.
Laurie, I have nothing original or witty to say in this comment box, but have to thank you for this article - one which in my opinion, is painfully accurate. You are perhaps the only writer whom I have ever felt such gratitude towards; who has taken vague notions I've considered and wrestled with them, pinned them down - made connections no-one else makes. It often seems that if you keep writing, things will be okay. So thank you. For this article and all the others.
I've always respected the women who are curves. They are beautiful and natural. Please forget about this skinny asses look alike females. The bigger the better. Laurie - when are you going to write about the BBW? Cheers,
I agree with you on the glamourised "survival" stories in magazines and the speculation regarding celebrities. However, I would like to point out that in some cases media representations can aid conversation about the disorder. I am not sure if my family are just unusual, but watching some of programmes about anorexia on channel 4 actually helped us talk about my eating disorder. Additionally, there is something startling about seeing your obsessive behaviours mirrored on screen - looking at the way they limit the persons life and thinking about how they limit yours.
I think the real issue is HOW the media represents anorexia, not it doing so in the first place. There's nothing glamorous at all about taking hours to cut your food into tiny portions to make it last longer, having to eat the same miniscule amounts at the same time daily or obsessive calorie counting and distress when the particular product you want is not in stock at the supermarket. The problem with most anorexia stories is that they gloss over the unpleasant and dull details, presenting the disorder as a tragically chaotic yet beautiful self starvation. In reality it is far more mundance and unattracive.
oh, and I absolutely agree that other eating disorders should not be sidelined in favour of (mis)representations of anorexia!
Sorry but this is incoherent and shouldn't have been published.
I'm addicted to these comment threads.
& I know, if I'm honest about my situation, that with each hit & the subsequent access to the appalling insights of cretinous people who have somehow managed to find a computer, I am undoing 25 years of personal development & the damage might well be permanent. But I can't stop myself.
Great article Laurie. Some of us understood it without going into autopilot 'defend the menz' mode. I liked the line: "the fashion for anorexia taps into an increasingly popular loathing for female flesh - and fear of female flesh is fear of female power." I recognise this in too many of the men I know, although it's not an attitude held exclusively by men.
Thanks for sharing your experiences with us.
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