“Britain’s Next Top Model” is a cultural crash in slow-mo
. . . which is precisely what makes it such shockingly good television.
By Laurie Penny Published 04 July 2010 11:24
The new series of Britain's Next Top Model, which airs tomorrow after months of breathless publicity, is set to be the most screechingly obnoxious cycle yet of this long-running, extraordinarily popular global pageant of beauty fascism.
The show, a high-fashion reality knockout that pits pretty young women against one another to compete for representation in a series of invasive and demeaning "challenges", is a repulsive montage of contemporary culture's hateful attitude towards young people in general, and young women in particular.
At the end of every episode, a weeping, underweight teenager is marched down the catwalk of shame and sent home to contemplate her deficiencies on the dole, after being informed that she does not "have what it takes". Public criticism of the series has focused on its supposed promotion of eating disorders, but Next Top Model is problematic for a whole host of reasons.
Last year, the UK version of the show faced press excoriation for allowing an anorexic contestant, Jade, through to the final round. Like every reiteration of the so-called "size-zero controversy" -- which has now been thoroughly incorporated into the mythology of the fashion industry -- this story simply cried out to be illustrated with ogle-worthy shots of stick-thin, half-naked teenagers. (Last week the new judge Julien Macdonald confided in Wales on Sunday that the notion of the industry giving space to models larger than a size eight is "a joke".)
Cultish obsession with the bodies of emaciated girls is only part of what makes Britain's Next Top Model so obnoxious and so fascinating.
This is not, at heart, a show about beauty, or even about fashion: it is a programme about social mobility. The reason America's Next Top Model and its 20 local variants have been so wildly successful is that they formalise the rules of late-capitalist femininity as experienced by young women in the west: life may be hard and jobs may be few, but if you are beautiful enough, if you are thin and pretty and perky and prepared to submit to any conceivable humiliation, you too might have a chance of "making it".
Cats in a sack
The show takes ordinary teenagers, for a version of "ordinary" whose baseline is remarkable slenderness and regularity of feature, plucks them out of regional obscurity and makes them fight like cats for a chance of a better future.
These girls will do almost anything for that chance. They will strip naked, they will cry and wail on camera, they will betray one another clumsily and, of course, they will scream. The orchestrated screaming is an essential part of the Next Top Model experience, though the British contestants have yet to muster the enthusiasm of the American hopefuls, who dutifully erupt into hysterical shrieks whenever anything happens on the show at all.
The fairy tale these girls are chasing was dreamt up in the neoliberal haze of the 1990s, when supermodels like Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell overtook actresses as the iconic female role models of the age, courted by rock stars and showered with money and attention merely for showing up and looking a certain way.
This sustaining mythology no longer has any basis in reality. In today's world of faceless, interchangeable, airbrushed femininity, the modelling industry is glutted with identikit beauties who earn very little and exist to be chewed up and tossed aside for younger, less traumatised models. Yet the dream persists.
Indeed, the new host of Britain’s Next Top Model is the 1990s supermodel Elle Macpherson, known in her day as "The Body". Macpherson quite literally embodies this cruel fantasy, precisely resembling a woman who has been pickled in a tank of flattery for 20 years.
The show is soaked in the language of corporate self-fashioning, with endless motivational sermons from the judges and hosts about "working it", "believing in yourself" and "being on top".
The atmosphere of naked desperation differs from that of talent contests such as The X Factor and Britain's Got Talent, which are all about showcasing the weird and wonderful. Britain's Next Top Model, by contrast, is about the art of ambitious self-effacement.
Car crash
For all the show’s platitudes about personality, individuality and the importance of "standing out", the girls who do best are always the most blankly identikit, the meek, spiritless women who excel at taking orders and "representing the brand". This quite possibly makes Next Top Model the ultimate capitalist psychodrama.
The servile posturing of Top Model hopefuls is as nothing, however, compared to the submission that's required of young women in modelling when the cameras stop rolling.
In 2007, Anand Jon Alexander, a top fashion photographer, was jailed for 59 years on several counts of rape and assault of young models in California. According to industry insiders, sexual and physical intimidation is standard practice in the world that the young contestants of Britain's Next Top Model compete to gain access to.
In 2009, the former model Sara Ziff's gonzo documentary Picture Me courageously exposed the epidemic of misogynist bullying and sexual assault in the fashion industry, with teenage girls routinely required to submit sexually to male agents, photographers and designers who hold every shred of power and who cover for each other's indiscretions if the girls wish to remain in work.
Britain’s Next Top Model is a rags-to-riches fairy tale updated for the 21st century. Like all fairy tales, it has a moral: if you're a girl, your success in life depends on your ability to brutalise your body into a stereotype of faceless corporate femininity, your capacity to compete coldly with other women for physical attention, and your willingness to submit tamely to industrial exploitation and sexual abuse.
This is what the dream of modelling means for young women today, and it is this contemporary parable about the rewards of self-discipline and submission that makes young women want to starve themselves.
The cruel, misogynist realism of Britain's Next Top Model is a cultural car crash in slow motion -- and this is precisely what makes it such shockingly good television.
The new series of "Britain's Next Top Model" begins on LIVING on Monday 5 July at 9pm.
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49 comments
Oh for goodness sake, what's a matter with a bunch or pretty girl's making the most of themselves on a series if that's what they want to do. People can choose to watch it or not. It's just the way it is, some women like Elle are stunning, others aren't, you can't blame them for making the most of it!
"Sent home to contemplate their deficiencies on the dole"
The Dole? Why? Surely you are not assuming that any young woman who wishes to model or participate in this show has no other talent, ability, skills or intelligence other than looking "pretty". No you can't be because that would be lazy, sloppy thinking and bad journalism. And assuming that someone has no worth because of how they look is as stupid as assuming that they have great worth. And writers in the New Statesman aren't stupid. Or are they?
http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b00spjw8/Tom_Jones_at_70/
There should be some sort of visibility vest.
totally off topic, but a crossover fem-macho gem, enjoy,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2BgZCmB6iZY
Penny, who are the most spineless and lacking in morals, that will sell their friend if they get the most easily sold and tooked conned that they have, by the condem government, a man or a woooman?
song from the early eighties, penny, to concertrate the mind, where blokes were going spare,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x6JaaTUwByU
The age-old debate over celebrating high-achieving women no matter who they are or what they believe is as old as feminism itself (Thatcher being a shining example in the 1980s). Much energy was expended decades ago on trying to resolve the issue but as we can see, essentially it was just one debate that led to the failure of feminism. Still, it's good to see you in there battling away Laurie! cheers
Never watched the programme and never will. Don't get me wrong, I like seeing a well turned ankle as much as the next guy but not in some competition dreamed up by 12 year old TV execs. I find all these faux gladiatorial reality shows quite depressing. Much like watching Jeremy Kyle on a loop. In this case I suspect the audience mainly consists of teenage girls. I don'r know enough about teenage girls to have an opinion on their motives for watching.
Laurie objects to "the idea that young women need to be both beautiful and willing to engage with a certain kind of relentless capitalist self-fashioning in order to achieve their dreams".
We should add: “in order to achieve their dreams…of being a model”.
It's unclear whether her objection is more to beauty, relentless capitalist self-fashioning or being required to do both simultaneously.
“Relentless capitalist self-fashioning” sounds the worst, doesn’t it? Yeah, I think that’s what she’s on about. For any non-intellectuals reading this thread, it means: “I’m unhappy with the world and I am absolutely unable to articulate any clear diagnosis of what it is I object to".
@ quite riot girl- I'm not sure what your point is on 'ethnicity and femininity' ?
I wonder if you could be more specific.
Hi tabby cat. My only point is that as a very popular, pop culture TV show, that is all about women and 'feminine' identity, it is worth examining Top Model not just to criticise its portrayal of catwalk modelling.
There is a lot going on, such as the identities portrayed by Tyra Banks and the way she interacts with some of the young models, in terms of gender and ethnicity.I haven't come to any conclusions as I haven't analysed the show in that way properly. But it definitely engages in conflict over 'ethnicity' 'gender' 'racism'...
This reminds me a bit of the reviews of Sex In the City 2 e.g. by Lindy West that criticised the misogyny of the film, and in so doing managed to put down the women who love sex in the city and their complex reasons for identifying with the characters.
I shouldnt have mentioned McPherson's success I am not interested in commercial capitalisms standards of success. Sorry.
I wonder if Laurie Penny would be so worried if it was a show about men...didn't think so.
I'd be equally worried if it were men being treated in this way, but is that really, honestly, likely to happen?
Great articale as always Laurie
For myself i'd sooner use a nailgun pin myself up on the wall and have done with than watch drivel like this but sadly fluff like this and the dire X factor has become the norm nowadays in what passes for entertainment and for me thats the sad thing about it all.
Anyone reading this article would assume there were no male models, or at least if there were then they were all paid vastly more than the women and not exploited whatsoever. In reality female models are getting paid vastly more than men for doing the same job.
I guess pay gaps really don't matter in industries where the lower paid sex has a penis.
In Anais Nin's 'The Model' - a piece of 'erotic writing' - an underlying fuel for the story's eroticism is in the potential of this sort of work (modelling) for danger. In fact, much of her erotic work is fueled by such danger and much of what she seems to present as feminine self-craft comes with finding herself in a relationship with men and the male gaze. She does not respond with halcyon idealism, but instead with the necessities of life and inter-relation.
I think my point is that you move into these spaces with all the complexity of your life. Next Top Model is of course an atrocity exhibition, no doubt about that, but this doesn't mean to say that all those moving through it are 'victims', which is to some extent the implication of the above. In the world they are in, they are not 'faceless', but present in that they are there and free to write the environment as they see it. It's the gaze of the spectator and the TV screen that divests them of their face and this piece to some extent is part of that process.
"I'd be equally worried if it were men being treated in this way, but is that really, honestly, likely to happen?"
Erm, No. That argument always seems a little pointless John Jones, whereas this kind of treatment of young girls is virtually a cultural norm. I suggest you get hold of a few women's magazines, have a read and draw your own conclusions.
Reading that back, it sounds a bit critical. wasn't necessarily supposed to be. You are very good at what you do.
Thank you I Am A Comment! But we must remember that 'The Model', and indeed all the erotic stories of Nin's early years, were written for commission, the stories handed down by wealthy patrons, many of whom explicitly wanted stories about voyeurs/ the power of the male gaze. Raises interesting questions though!
Stephen Smith at 0:18 -
I'm not implying that these young women aren't good for anything but looking pretty, far from it. But of course it'll be the dole - have you seen the state of the job market for young people? 70 applicants for every job! All hail our new Con-Dem masters!
well we don't walk round with our heads bowed but if you visit my blog www.quietgirlriot.wordpress.com and say hi I will give you some pointers.
yours,
submissively and feminist,
QRG
"But we must remember that 'The Model', and indeed all the erotic stories of Nin's early years, were written for commission, the stories handed down by wealthy patrons, many of whom explicitly wanted stories about voyeurs/ the power of the male gaze. "
This is fine and good and right, but in reading those stories you can see an alternative female possibility also. On top of that, I'd be willing to risk saying she was connected to those texts beyond writing for an affluent male audience. If nothing else, she was bangin Henry Miller and even beyond that, there's that quote where she explicitly characterizes herself as wanting to be dominated in her love life. I'd dig it out if i weren't such a lazy animal.
The interesting part about my point is this: that beyond what these creatures appear as on our screens, there are also complex self-ralations involved and duties to craft said selves in self-relevant ways. To produce them solely as victims doesn't necessarily do them justice.
Again though, I've no wish to defend the spectacle. I just want certain other potentials recognised.
"I do not want to be the leader. I refuse to be the leader. I want to live darkly and richly in my femaleness. I want a man lying over me, always over me. His will, his pleasure, his desire, his life, his work, his sexuality the touchstone, the command, my pivot. I don’t mind working, holding my ground intellectually, artistically; but as a woman, oh, God, as a woman I want to be dominated. I don’t mind being told to stand on my own feet, not to cling, be all that I am capable of doing, but I am going to be pursued, fucked, possessed by the will of a male at his time, his bidding."
And quite frankly, they just don't make em like this anymore!!
I believe shows like this are a response to the rise of women in the workplace - encouraging women to hate themselves and work against one another for the admiration of men is a simple way for men - and women with an interest - to deperately try to retain the old order. How about a programme "Britain next top female lawyer/doctor". Five students picked for their intelligence compete to get a good job and earn lots of money.
I'm sure Britain's next top Lawyer would be almost completely indistinguishable from its model cousin, though would perhaps allow for contestants under 5'9".
'MacPherson quite literally embodies this cruel fantasy, precisely resembling a woman who has been pickled in a tank of flattery for twenty years.' I think you are doing Ms MacPherson down. She is I think a talented and charismatic woman, and a successful person in her own right (if we are going to use standard norms of success). But I don't think all models should be hated on as you seem to.
I don't like the next top model concept, and yet I have watched the american version for the carcrash value.
But I don't seek to denigrate the career choices, however limited, of any woman. And I like Elle McPherson.
You have a very privileged position writing for the New Statesman. You write very well. I just wish sometimes your work was a bit more nuanced and less hyperbolic. Maybe its not supposed to be but you could break the mould!
I cannot watch tv. I am sitting in a living room in Japan, the tv is on. It is a comedy variety show. Comedy variety shows are on 24 hours here.
"This is not, at heart, a show about beauty, or even about fashion: it is a programme about social mobility. The reason that America's Next Top Model and its 20 local variants have been so wildly successful is that they formalise the rules of late capitalist femininity as experienced by young women in the West: life may be hard and jobs may be few, but if you are beautiful enough, if you are thin and pretty and perky and prepared to submit to any conceivable humiliation, you too might have a chance of "making it"."
Even my Mother, herself victim of Capitalist ideology, taught me that victimizing and exploiting women, especially young women was wrong. But my Mother was aberrant, she had to work to support 3 kids.
Anyway, keep writing. I like your anger.
Brilliant, Laurie, as always. Thank you for this!
File away the names of the lucky winners and come back to them in two or three years; if their modelling careers are over then they might be free to tell you about the lies, coercive sex, exploitation and squalor.
I can't imagine that anyone would publish the story, but it is well worth recording.
Can we please have programmes like 'Brtains next mechanical engineer' or 'Britains next chartered accountant', instead of this drivel.
Saw this by chance. The opening title sequence with EM's theatrical look-over-the-shoulder hair flick made me laugh out loud. Surreality TV.
we have the apprentice? which is basically where contestants compete to get a six figure salary job, if you dont like it dont watch it, hopefully the tv people will get the message with its crap ratings and stop it? if shows like this, x factor, britains got talent, big brother etc etc had crap ratings they wouldnt keep returning to haunt our tv screens! god i hate television!
Wonderful as always, Laurie. Your anger is a constant inspiration, and somehow always makes me feel stronger and braver. You rock. :-)
This is a difficult area for feminists. There is a market for pretty people doing stuff, male or female. That's the way it is.
I agree with all of this except the characterisation of the model industry as universally exploitative. The snippets of data you offer in support of the claim don't add anything to the argument that Next Top Model is vile and misogynistic, and the false generalisation undermines the article as a whole.
For a start, catwalk modelling is a tiny and weird section of the industry. Secondly, while I'm sure abuse exists, claiming that it's an intrinsic or unavoidable part of the experience of modelling is just not true, and more than it's an intrinsic or unavoidable part of the experience of dating.
Sure, the industry is problematic as all hell, especially when it comes to gender politics. But it's not rotten to the core. Look at the rise of female photographers taking pictures of men; the many creative and empowered people making non-exploitative visual art together. I know you're focussing on fashion and catwalk modelling here, which I have less experience of, but I think your point would carry better if you admitted more nuance. Modelling really isn't that black and white.
I am a comment
I think you will find that the submissive, feminist disciples of anais nin are still very much amongst us. You just need to know where to look!
So many women spend their womanhoods trying to reattain the ideal slightness of the girl.
What does this say about what men want?
''So many women spend their womanhoods trying to reattain the ideal slightness of the girl.
What does this say about what men want?''
Is it really just what men want? Perhaps a man's natural reaction is to go for the young and fertile looking. Equally perhaps a lot of women want to retain that look for their own self esteem? And not to please men, but to feel young and vibrant? I go to the gym to keep fit and healthy and avoid middle age spread so that I retain the zest of youth, not to look good for women.
I would think a lot of women do the same.
Hi Pandora,
I understand your point, and I'm not trying to make out that the very *act* of posing for a picture is exploitative. I'm saying that the fashion industry, not 'modelling in general', is rotten to the core. My research and limited experience through friends lead me to believe sincerely that this is the case. I'm sorry this wasn't nuanced enough for your tastes, but I'm not here to make an assessment of the art of posing per se, and I feel it's rather a straw man to suggest that the review is lacking if it doesn't apologise for any and all types of portrait photography.
Fundamentally, this is about one particular show and one particular industry which deserve no mercy whatsoever, particularly as they seem to play out some of the worst aspects of anxious, performative commodified femininity.
I totally agree with Pandora. She made some points much better than me that I wanted to make.
I think modelling is an interesting arena because there are so many women working in the field. So to just dismiss it out of hand is to not think carefully about those women's experiences, difficult choices and career aspirations.
Quiet riot girl - I'm not hating on all models, I don't know what part of the piece led you to believe that. I just believe that Elle MacPherson has made vast fortunes by embodying a particular type of bland, perky corporate fetish of womanhood, and that does merit criticism.
Nor do I think it's acceptable to defend a woman just because she's 'successful'. Surely feminism has come far enough that we don't have to celebrate every rich and famous female without questioning the motives behind that celebration. Why should Elle MacPherson be one of the most famous, most universally praised women in the world just for looking a particular way, when - for example - real heroines like Malalai Joya and Aung San Suu Kyi are far less well known?
Hi Laurie:
For me it is how you talk about an individual woman, regardless of her status.Saying:
'MacPherson quite literally embodies this cruel fantasy, precisely resembling a woman who has been pickled in a tank of flattery for twenty years.'
sounds like a not great thing to say about any woman to me. And similarly with the contestants, I know there is a lot of hysteria on the shows, but you paint a stereotyped view of young women that you are supposed to be challenging. I found some of the women on the american series very tough, some of them challenged issues around the size issue in the industry, there was an openly lesbian woman who challenged homophobia etc.
I am no fan of the show but I think you fall into stereotyping 'women' and 'models' whilst criticising the admittedly awful programmes.
Quiet riot girl, I really object to being told that I've 'dismissed modelling out of hand.' I've done a lot of research and reading around this area, and I know people who are models -both fashion models and 'alternative' models where, as Pandora says, the arrangements are often different - including my little sister, although she doesn't do it any more.
I think the whole topic of modelling, sexual performance and controlling gaze deserves unpacking. There's scope in there for a whole other post (many, in fact), and yes, I do find performativity problematic in terms of young women's career choices. But I feel that you're reading something into this piece that simply isn't there.
Quiet riot girl @19:44
Okay, understood. Personally, I'm not of the school of feminism which feels the need to avoid criticising anyone just because she's a woman - my understanding of solidarity is different, although I do know many people who feel that way.
It always raises the question of where the line is drawn. How much patriarchal complicity is permissible before you can criticise a female person? Do we stop before or after Sarah Palin?
I found many of the girls on the series 'tough', too. They'd have to be, it's a hugely punishing show, and that's what I object to - the idea that young women need to be both beautiful and willing to engage with a certain kind of relentless capitalist self-fashioning in order to achieve their dreams.
I am very critical of other women, and including other feminists. But then they are very critical of me too! I just thought you painted a physical picture of McPherson that wasn't necessary and traded on her looks and age.
I agree the industry of modelling and how it is presented on TV needs unpacking. But I think the terminology you use serves to reinforce some of the stereotypes of women models.
I find many feminist discussions of 'femininity'in our culture problematic, because they often go down the same road as the mainstream culture they are trying to challenge, and end up reproducing very negative versions of feminine identities.
Take Tara Banks, I don't like her. But I'd be interested to examine her role and what it says about ethnicity and femininity. Not in the oh shes a successful black woman isnt that great way but to 'unpack' some of the ways in which she presents being a successful black woman in that industry. It can't be all negative.
I think you are right there is a lot more to say about Top Model!
p.s. not meaning to go for you in particular here. This is an issue in feminism I think- a preoccupation with images of 'femininity'. I know you have much wider interests and write about all sorts of issues.
i have always loved these show even when i was in my teens ;however why not do something that no one has done before ;have people over 40 to model there are some very good looking men and women out there it should not be about age everyone is enique.Has nature been good to you? X
Sir Tom, last night, Penny. I know you would like to fall at his feet, don't deny yourself, sexy, ;)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NsdDWPvCyy0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=trF2wSHf_jY
yeh!
Katherine, expanding her chest,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=liWYLxitHkU