2 September 2026

Beer and Sandwiches: At the White Horse in East Yorkshire

This column is our weekly pub review, written by pintsmen, women and children across the nation. Suggestions to letters@newstatesman.co.uk

By New Statesman

Illustration by Marta Signori

The wonderful thing about the White Horse (aka Nellies) in Beverley, East Yorkshire, is that you never know who may come through the door – the portal. It is a link into another world.

This jewel of a Samuel Smith owned public house is illuminated by gaslight and heated with blazing fires in each of its rooms. Newcomers are easily spotted, as they try to take photographs of the gas lights and interior of the bar as they walk around with bemused and tentative glances at the locals. They are swiftly admonished and told in no uncertain terms: “no phones”. Status is not respected and blushes are not spared as Sarah, the manager, gives a stern rebuke.

There’s a cracked old mirror and photographs; marble-top tables sing when a pint glass caresses them; and creased sunlight filters through the ornate textured panes, leaving patterns in the dust motes.

Regular hours

This house has its own shift system: regulars stick to their two-hourly drinking slots and rarely connect with crossover drinkers unless with a slight nod. Each of the five darkened rooms is populated by its own characters, who emerge from the gloom only to go to the bar. The clientele and conversation is diverse. Rules can enhance the old social contract.

Tasting notes

The establishment sells only Samuel Smith products and certainly no sandwiches. Crisps are well marked up to discourage buyers. The bitters, stouts and lagers are an acquired taste, yes, but tastes worth acquiring for the pleasure of drinking in this wonderful pub and waiting to see who comes through the portal.

White Horse Inn, Beverley, East Yorkshire

[Further reading: Stand up for your right to drink a pint vertically in Soho]