30 September 2026

Beer and sandwiches: At the Royal Oak in Cambridgeshire

This column is our weekly pub review, written by pintsmen, women and children across the nation. Suggestions to letters@newstatesman.co.uk

By New Statesman

Illustration by Marta Signori

There are 472 pubs in Britain called the Royal Oak, and each claims to have sheltered Charles II on his flight from the New Model Army. It is just possible the Royal Oak in Barrington has a genuine claim, dating as it does from the 14th century – though whether the Merry Monarch would have skirted so close to Cambridge, a parliamentary stronghold, is surely debatable. What is not debatable is the quality of the pub. Sited just seven miles south-west of the city centre, it makes for a perfect stop-off if, say, you’ve been visiting the City of Screaming Choirs and are returning to London. Although it’s worth the visit in its own right.

Bosky ponds

A gorgeous thatched inn in Barrington, the inside is echt English Tavern – all dark nooks, stone flags and oak beams – while the garden sits on Europe’s largest village green, almost offensively picturesque, complete with bosky pond. Dogs are welcome – indeed, fussed over – and there are enough local real ales and nationwide favourites for the discerning drinker.

Meanwhile, its wine list “has a gentle bias towards the Languedoc-Roussillon region of France”. But the food’s where the place really shines. Local, seasonal and freshly delivered each day; pub classics, sure, but also beef cheek croquettes, whipped goat’s cheese with dukkah, and haggis bonbons.

Oakie dokie

“The best Sunday roast in Cambridgeshire” is a bold claim, but you wouldn’t bet against them. There are even trees outside that the kids can climb. Charles may not have fled Puritanism here, but you certainly can.