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Welcome to the Caribbean: Paradise Lost

Darcus Howe

Published 14 August 2008

Any withdrawal of enthusiasm for Antigua as a tourist destination will at once reduce the island to a basket case

The tiny island states of the Caribbean are drifting in the dark. In a world dominated by huge corporations, national economies expanding beyond the human im agination, enormous armies erupting in bloodshed in remote corners of the world, tsunamis, hurricanes, earthquakes tossing and turning millions into human detritus, these islands, from which a substantial number of British citizens have come, appear doomed.

It is clear to me that, from Haiti in the north to Trinidad and Tobago in the south, there is little or no tomorrow. At the start of this very month, Dr Catherine Mullaney and her husband, Ben, were visiting the island of Antigua, a picturesque tourist destination, on their honeymoon. They were safely ensconced in their hotel on Jolly Beach, or so they thought.

In the dead of night, they were savagely murdered. The news spread throughout the UK. Every radio and television news broadcast carried reports of the brutal murders, informing the 90,000 foreign tourists who visit Antigua yearly that there is trouble in paradise.

Antigua has a population of roughly 70,000. Tourism accounts for between 60 and 70 per cent of its income. Any withdrawal of enthusiasm for Antigua as a tourist destination will at once reduce the island to a basket case. Such is the economic fragility of these island states.

One may write a similar script for Jamaica, St Vincent, St Lucia and Barbados. Haitians await their Caribbean brothers and sisters, who are threatening to join them in orgies of violence and self-destruction.

Add to these the long-drawn-out volcanic explosions that all but destroyed Montserrat from 1995 onwards, and Hurricane Ivan, which almost blew Grenada into oblivion.

I was on holiday in Barbados when Peter Mandelson arrived in Jamaica to pursue the World Trade Organisation's objectives. Newspapers, television and radio stations announced that the West Indian political leaders were busily engaged in trade negotiations. And for what? A handful of bananas here, a sackful of sugar there. The Caribbean governments are in denial. The world in which we live can easily do without agricultural produce from these islands.

"Negotiations" implies that both sides have leverage as they assemble around the table. The Caribbean islands have none. Rising food prices threaten the daily lives of their citizens. The increase in the price of oil doomed West Indians to penury until Hugo Chávez offered a lifeline: oil on loan and facilities for its storage without payback in the foreseeable future. All the countries, with the exception of Trinidad and Tobago and Barbados, jumped at the opportunity. A change of government in Caracas would put them all back to square one.

These realities have thrown the peoples of the Caribbean into a self-destructive cycle. They slaughter each other by the day, and now tourists as well. And Trinidad and Jamaica lead the way.

In fact, this violence has become a commodity for export. British representatives have, in the past few weeks, been trawling the region for able-bodied young men to join the former British imperial army. Huge queues of potential mer cenaries bear testimony to the degradation of the Caribbean spirit. But joining the military engagements in Afghanistan and Iraq is preferable to a violent life in the Caribbean.

Caribbean folk in England with kith and kin on the islands and close ties to home are paralysed in the encircling gloom. And the hurricane season is upon us. Any day now, another island will submit to the hostile forces of nature.

I throw my arms up in surrender. Not trouble in paradise now, but Paradise Lost.

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27 comments from readers

RealBajan
14 August 2008 at 21:06

You are most certainly misinformed. Spend some time in the Caribbean, Sir, and check your facts carefully. It's deluded people like yourself who would have all foreigners believe the Caribbean is a huge third world congregation where we sell our daughters for dinner money and pull ticks out each others hair. You have put together both a negative and false representation of my home. If this were the Stupid Satirical Olympic Journalism Contest Without Facts it might be worth a medal, but in reality it's not even worth the "Cyber-Inc" or kilobytes of space it takes up on your web server.

RealBajan
14 August 2008 at 22:03

By the way, the murder rate in new york is about 15,000 times that of antigua. Antigua has a lower murder rate than london, the united states, france, spain, italy, germany and a slew of other popular destinations, why arent you writing warnings of these where visitors are murdered daily? This is only "news" because it is such a rarity and you have painted it as a daily happening.

RealBajan
14 August 2008 at 22:18

yes, that last comment was as exagerated as your article. i am fuming.

swatantra nandanwar
16 August 2008 at 15:43

Howe is wrong: Antigua is already a basket case, as are the rest of the Islands. Surely the Islands need to come together and create a common market, with greater co-operation and common administration systems. That way they would have greater negotiating and bargaining power. It was a sad day when the West Indies Federation broke up.

Bajan
17 August 2008 at 04:43

You visited Barbados and you include it in the list of Caribbean destinations you consider "Paridise Lost"? This article is a lot too bias, not a little.

J Reid
17 August 2008 at 12:01

To be honest, this article does more of a disservice to the author than to the islands he seeks to belittle. A quintessential crab in a bucket - an African American who, for some reason, gets off on feeling more significant than those "other blacks" in the Caribbean - this writer shows his inept argumentative skills, lack of balance and a myopia linked to sheer stupidity.

In London (which, if the author is not aware, is in Great Britain - the country from which these victims hailed) 22+ teenagers were brutally and savagely knifed to death, to the point where police now undertake random searches with metal detectors all around the capital. Unfortunately, to his feeble mind, the author would rather view murder in the North as part and parcel of development, while in the Caribbean, it is a mark of our 'junglish' and 'primitive' nature. Shame.

J Reid
17 August 2008 at 12:06

Oh how shocking. Is the author actually British? This makes it even worse.

re-discover
17 August 2008 at 13:25

'the news that 3 children aged 16 and under had been murdered in the UK took Trinidad by storm'

12 March 2007

'The heroric struggle of black parenthood'

Author: Darcus Howe

bajan in exile
17 August 2008 at 19:33

While Howe may be a bit melodramatic, in essence, he is perfectly correct.

veryangrybajan
18 August 2008 at 21:35

I'm am not going to comment on the Caribbean's negotiating power, or the fact that many Caribbean economies are fickle and fragile. What I vehemently disagree with is Mr. Howe's biased and misleading comments like "they slaughter each other by the day, and now tourists as well" and other misguided comments, which lump the entire Caribbean into the same basket. What authority does this man have to compare admittedly violent Jamaica with Barbados or even Antigua where the honeymooners from the UK were recently murdered? Would Mr. Howe advise people not to visit Gibraltar because of the recent state of murders in London? I think not, and yet the distance from Jamaica to Barbados is roughly the same as the distance from London to Gibraltar (over 1700km) and they are worlds apart. While the murder rate in the UK as a whole is smaller than many Caribbean islands, these figures are skewed by the fact that the murder rates in the larger cities like London, Birmingham and Manchester is on par with or more than many Caribbean islands.The recent murder of the tourists in Antigua was the first murder of a tourist in that country in 13 years!! While my hearts go out to the families of the murder victims, surely these statistics do not indicate that there is a massive crime problem against tourists (and by the way not against the locals) in Antigua. Admitedly the crime rate in many Caribbean islands is rising, but what are Britain, the USA and Canada doing to help the situation? I'll answer that question, prisoners of West Indian origin who have served their time in these countries are being deported to the Caribbean, many without any relatives or support systems in the countries of their origins. It is a fact that the rising crime rate in SOME Caribbean countries can be traced to when the repatriation of criminals who learnt their trade in London, New York and Toronto were sent back to the region, where the penal institutions and support systems simply cannot cope. Maybe I should write a column in response advising travellers to avoid London where savage teenagers slaughter each other by the day, and crack addicts like Amy Winehouse are still role models to many. My advice to the ignorant, misinformed and misguided Mr. Howe is to do a bit of research first, spend some time in the places you criticise so, but most importantly, do not tarnish the countless islands of the Caribbean with the same brush.

veryangrybajan
18 August 2008 at 21:43

By the way Mr. Howe, where are you from originally? I'd be willing to bet that you are from one of the larger islands like Trinidad or Jamaica where crime is a serious problem and have never spent any large amount of time in any of the other islands. Someone said before that these stories in the Caribbean make headlines because they are such rare occurances. Even in lawless Jamaica (where I lived for three years) crime is largely concentrated in downtown Kingston. I've had to bite my tongue so to speak so as not to lambaste you Bajan style for the above article but that would have been as unprofessional as you.

Modesty X
19 August 2008 at 02:10

Darcus Howe is, and has always been, completely full of sh1t.

Come on New Statesman and do the right thing - stop giving this heediot a platform to cuss the Caribbean.

And if the Caribbean is so loathesome why is he running back every two minutes?

Disgraceful article in every way.

Modesty X
19 August 2008 at 02:49

Howe is considered a sick joke in the UK but his "reputation" in the Caribbean is worse.

http://tinyurl.com/68wgh7

Kim Penfold
20 August 2008 at 00:45

Mr Howe has used a tragedy as an excuse to spread misinformed nonsense. He must have a serious chip on his shoulder about the Caribbean to seek to do so much harm. I lve here and don't feel doomed. Inaccurate nonsense from Mr Howe will, however, harm Caribbean economies. We know there are crime problems in some territories but to trat the entire Caribbean as if it is overwhelmed by a tsunami of violent crime is nonsense. Murder of tourists in Antigua is so rare it shocked the island. They called in help from outside because they are not used to such events. Here in Barbados I feel much safer than when I lived in England. Howe must know it is safe here because he boasts of his holday here - surely he is not so unwise to go somewhere unsafe? If I warned people here not to take their children on holiday to the UK because of knife attacks I woud have more grounding in reality than Howe. The same would be true if I warned people not to send their children to the USA because they would be killed in campus murders! The Howe article is riiculus but it is damaging. You should retract it and sack him.

Kim Penfold

Caribbean Beauty
20 August 2008 at 03:58

Mr Howe is entirely correct. The previous posters complaining that large first world cities have higher numbers of murders are misguided, since the per capita murders of Caribbean islands large and small is higher, PLUS, crucially to the mainstay of Caribbean swaying palms tourism is the concept of idyllic relaxation. Now that is gone forever from the minds of potential visitors. It matters not if those visitors are at risk or not (and they are, I am a niche Caribbean tour operator and some of my guests - and my wife and I - have been brutally robbed) because it is their perception which matters. IF THEY FEEL like they have to keep their guard up and watch over their shoulders and jump at every noise in the night, THEY WILL FEEL to book elsewhere and vote with their feet.

All that said, our bookings to the islands have collapsed by 50-70% die to the consumer slowdown and slashing of airlift into this region. This is the killer blow to Caribbean tourism, after 15 years of non-stop growth and endless leverage to build new hotels, guest houses, and to buy car rental fleets, tourist boats etc. All was factored on continure growth, NOT massive contraction. Indeed, the regions' banks will be very busy foreclosing on lots of these businesses then in turn the homes of their soon to be unemployed workers. The banks themselves may end up under liquidity threat once their foreclosed assets are unsellable. With the rise in unemployment will come a rise in crack crime, prostitution and thefts etc. Tourism will take a further downturn accordingly and the regions' politicians can offer no welfare state cushion, having fleeced all the money away into their corrupt pockets during the good times. Nothing is left - Darius Howe is correct and the nicer islands such as Barbados etc, will indeed become seething writhing hell-holes a la Haiti, within 10 years from now.

Only first world levels of discipline and policing can stop this from happening - sadly these do not exist here. Good luck my lovely Caribbean, you will fall to your knees before you rise again in 30 years, like a stumbling alcoholic about to lose job, home and family, you need to hit rock bottom and realise you have a problem until the social and political will can be born to take the tough decisions needed to crush crime - if any money remains in the coffers to do it.

bajan in exile
20 August 2008 at 05:23

Wow...........Caribbean Beauty. I couldn't have put it better. All Caribbean people want and try to do is "cover up" but the truth is finally coming out. That's why I left.

The writing is on the wall.

J
22 August 2008 at 08:03

In the Daily Nation (Barbados) Thursday 21 August 2008, page 40 left hand column, towards the bottom of the page, there is a funeral notice for Henderson Arley Somerset Sobers, Interim Secretary of the Caribbean Tourism Association (who died of an apparent cardio-vascular accident) in the United States a week or so ago. Among the list of "dear friends" is one Darcus Howe (U.K.).

All I can say is "some friend"

Expect another blistering anti-Caribbean article from Howe when he returns to the U.K. from the funeral which takes place at St. Leonard's Church, Barbados at 11 a.m. on Friday.

Howe is a dangerous fraud.

He may have been our tourism chief's dear friend. But he is no friend of the Caribbean.

J
22 August 2008 at 08:26

Darcus Howe, Caribbean Beauty, Bajan in Exile, and about 20 years ago a British doctor named * *Scholsberg have been predicting the death of Barbados for a long time. I am here and I can assure Howe, Scholsberg, and Caribbean Beauty that Barbados will not become a "seething, writhing hell hole" in 10 years time. However I am still trying to follow Caribbean Beauty's argument. If Barbados is going to descend to hell in10 years time, what then would cause it to swiftly rise again 20 years later? Can you please provide some data in support of your thesis?

**In about 1980's Schlosberg "predicted" that 50% of Barbados would be dead from HIV by 2000. 2000 has come and gone. We have refused to die as "predicted." We get up every morning and go to work and most of us do a pretty good job when we get there. We are not nearly as promiscuous as Schlosberg mis-believed. We are not nearly as stupid as Howe and Caribbean Beauty, and Bajan in Exile seem to believe. We DO understand what is in our best interest. We do still welcome Schlosberg and his wife when they come here to visit. We have not infected them or ourselves. We still welcome Howe when he comes here for holidays as he often does. We will welcome him at Mr. Sober's funeral this morning. Barbados is a highly complex, exceedingly tolerant society society. Many foreign overnight "experts" have been predicting our death. We live still.

Caribbean Beauty
22 August 2008 at 12:18

To J and some other posters

Darcus Howe is a journalist and it is evident that he cares about the region's future, as do I (I make a living from tourism here). The selfish thing for us to do would be to keep our mouths shut about the rise in crack crime, the breakdown in the nuclear family, the rise in drugs smuggling and gun possession, the utter failure of small island governments to update, expand and de-dorrupt their 20th century police forces who simply cannot (or won't if in the pay of drug barons) cope with 21st century organised - or even the "wannabe bling bling young disorganised" criminals. Given the list above, and given that the citizens of small island like Barbados have to a large extent abandoned their traditional agricultural self-feeding roots, to base the vast majority of their economies on tourism, ask yourself what will happen to your economy and therefore society now that the world's longest and deepest depression since the 1930's is upon us PLUS the stories of crime (remember the British youth shot dead in Barbados last year?) are resonating around the globe too, both deterring tourists from giving you their $? The depression (with massive growth in air fares, collapse in airlift, personal debt, unemployment and homelessness spreading in the UK, USA, Eire and the Eurozone) will force potential tourists to stay away, while the rumours of crime and inept police will cause those remaining with money to choose somewhere else.

Once your tourism industry starts to feel the full effects of all this in the autumn and coming winter, with 2009, 10 , 11 and 12 being much worse with potential drops of 40-70% in income for the islands, will your excellent welfare state and police force step in to feed the people and keep order? Oh sorry, I forgot that your welfare states are basic, your politicians and government workers have fleeced any money in the treasury coffers for emergency spending, and your police forces are unermanned, underequipped, undertrained, demoralised and partially corrupt, commanding little respect from the public and no fear from the police. It is only many years of non-stop tourism growth which has held the island together, take away the legal money and people need to live - chaos thrives in a vacuum. This is the reality - you think you are being patriotic in defending Barbados but in actuality you ought to be fighting to wake up society and politicians to do something before it is too late - otherwise you will stumble like an alcoholic for a while, then lose everything. Once you hit rock bottom, then - in 20 years with a lot of hard work and vigilante work from the people and communities (as the government will be quickly bankrupt without tourist tax revenues) you may, just may, escape the maelstorm and defeat the criminals. Likely with United Nations peace keepers and aid workers in support. Good luck and take your head out of the sand.

J
24 August 2008 at 05:21

Dear Caribbean Beauty:

Darcus Howe may have decieved you that he has Barbados' best interest at heart. But I am not so decieved.

And no to be honest I have never been particularly patriotic.

But I do know Barbados and Barbadians better than either you or Darcus ever will.

Barbados is much greater than the sum of its parts.

And no we have not abandoned our traditional self feeding lots. Who told you so? I certainly work mine up to this morning, and I hold down a job (unlike yours not tourism related at all) and raise a family. The family lots are there still and we can turn them around when we need to as we did during "the great depression" and during world war two. Barbadians have a much greater capacity for careful planning and for hard work than either you or Darcus give us credit for.

But as I sit here in Barbados at mid-night with my doors and windows wide open (as my parents and grandparents have done before me even during the hard times of the 1930's) it makes me wonder how I can be so deluded about my safety (and Barbados') while you and Darcus merely occasional visitors can be so right.

Best wishes.

J.

Caribbean Beauty
25 August 2008 at 00:55

HI J

Thanks for your reply. I respect you and your family's past and self-feeding habits, clearly you represent the decent hard working majority of Caribbean peoples. Sadly, it is the greedy, lazy and sociopathic youths who will not be prepared to work no garden, nor get any kind of proper job once the sh*t really hits the fax next year and therefter. Once there are no tourists for them to rob, or otherwise mamaguy on d beach for a few $, they are going to be coming through your open windows with a Mach 10 for company. Trust me, it's already happening, as the tourists right across the region start abandoning villa and cottage rentals to retreat to guarded resort hotels (safety in numbers) leaving the villa-invasion robbery specialists turning their skills to locals' home invasions and hotel reception-stick-ups. Read the media and weep. Then go to the hardware and buy some burglar bars....

Take care, I pray that I am wrong and that good people like you rise up and do the work which the police is failing to do

CB

veryangrybajan
25 August 2008 at 19:35

People, lets bring some sense back into this interesting discussion. People vary in their personalities and experiences. Some will have good experiences where they are born or settled and others will not. Caribbean beauty I'm not attacking you here, but obviously you have had some bad experiences in the Caribbean and you have obviously seen things that I have not. But you have to ask yourself if your prediction (and by the sound of it eager anticipation) of complete doom and gloom in the Caribbean because of the current WORLDWIDE economic slowdown and possibly recession is realistic. Yes there will be a slowdown in tourism, but it has happened before and it has happened again and yet we have always rebounded. We have endured hurricanes, floods, earthquakes and volcanoes and yet the Caribbean is still one of the top destinations in the world and for a reason. Its unrivaled beauty and its generally fantastic, friendly and outgoing people...Jamaica included. Barbados' economy suffered when the sugar industry collapsed but we found something else....tourism, which I'm afraid to say, barring some catastrophic event will be there to stay. If that collapses God forbid, the pride and industry (our motto) of Bajans and other west indians will prevail and we will find something else to keep the country more than afloat, but doing as well as it is despite (some) corruption, laziness, xenophobia and a severely limited land space. What good are you doing here by hastening the collapse of tourism in the Caribbean by writing generalised and quite misguided comments like your 3 posts above? Also you are not offering any solutions to the problems that you highlight above so your argument is not only misguided but unproductive. What we should be saying here is "What will the Caribbean do to help the situation in Haiti?" or "What can we as a region do to halt the rise in crime in many Caribbean countries." We are only as good as our most inefficient component. Bringing the argument back to Mr. Howe, you are doing nothing to help the Caribbean by writing such inaccurate, inflammatory crap and neither are many of the contributors to this space!!!!

veryangrybajan
25 August 2008 at 19:46

Dear J, hopefully I'll see you on the "seething, writhing hell hole" that the boatyard beach on Carlisle bay will surely be by August 25th 2018. I'll buy you a Daiquiri!

Caribbean Beauty
26 August 2008 at 00:08

Dear Very Angry Bajan

I make my comments to hasten the collapse of the stumbling alcoholic of Caribbean tourism so that it can clean up its backyard (or die on the streets). You, however, prefer the staus quo, to utter trite and complacent reassurances. Well I have news for you - the bulk of your people have indeed picked themselves up in the past after slowdowns and so on. But not with the new ingredient of crack crime and drugs barons thrown into the mix - these people can bring a fat wealthier nation to its knees (eg Colombia) and it takes massive resolve and external aid to deal with them (eg Colombia again) which - with people like you uttering soothing ditties - do not yet exist in Barbados.

Things will get a lot worse before they get better for the small islands. Just today the new PM of Grenada has warned public servants, police etc, that there is no money in the coffers to pay them. Barbados is wealthier and more successful, but in 2-3 years of massively slumped tourist taxes, your island will also be broke.

As I said before, I hope I am wrong, but I think if you were honest and stopped brushing the dirt under the mat, you too would agree that a dark future awaits you. No matter, carry on smiling and urging your leaders to do the same thing year in and year out, and see who is correct.

CB

shiva
28 August 2008 at 19:00

Mr Howe is spot on.

Have family in the caribbean and have been visiting twice a year for many years.

It is tragic to see the changes that have occurred.

The drug trade, the racism, the rudeness of the people.

The general filthyness of islands that declare themselves paradise, and the destruction of the ecology and total disregard of environmental issues.

The ineffectual police led by corrupt ineffectual governments.

The attitude is `never mind , have another drink`.

From dignified , serious people, I have seen a slide into violent crime, with a `you got it`, `I want it` , attitude.

Murder , robbery, kidnapping are the order of the day, with governments that have sold their people down the drain.

Now the tourism will stop, and poverty and more violence will follow.

And still people are in a state of denial.

Dark future is right.

J
29 August 2008 at 02:38

On 22 August at 12:18 Caribbean Beauty wrote: "Darcus Howe is a journalist and it is evident that he cares about the region's future, as do I (I make a living from tourism here). "

On August 28 at 00:08 Caribbean Beauty wrote "I make my comments to hasten the collapse of the stumbling alcoholic of Caribbean tourism"

Dear Caribbean Beauty: I am wondering why since you make your living from Caribbean tourism why then would you seek to haster the collapse of Caribbean tourism. Are you trying to take bread out of your own mouth?

Why?

Are Caribbean Beauty and Darcus Howe one and the same?

montrell
31 August 2008 at 12:26

Good work Caribbean Beauty, for trying to look beyond tourism at what might be going on underneath this whole dreadful business and what the real problems for Barbados might be.

Im sorry to disagree with some commentators, but trying to defend the relative safety of Barbados compared to the UK simply wont fly. Its absolute measures that matter here, not relative ones. If you are a country that depends on tourism in any way then you don't murder your tourists. Not one. Not ever. Especially not in their own hotel room. Its as simple as that. Ripping them off comes with the deal as it does in Spain (and England) - everyone expects that, including tourists. But if you cannot guarantee their personal safety to a 100% certainty then you need to take a serious look at what you are doing in the tourism business at all.

Im not going to say tourism isnt important. But its not the long-term answer to any country's economic and social problems, never has been and never will be. Tourism provides jobs and income to thousands, but all the time and energy spent to catering to tourists is time, energy and money taken away from dealing with the problems that beset B-dos's own people.

Of course tourism wont go away and why should it? But the quicker countries like B-dos reduce their dependence upon it the better. I have no easy answers to the question of how to do that and there arent any. But the speed and thoroughness with which the B-dos police investigated the Mullaney murders and have brought it to court shows what Bajans and Caribbeans in general can do if they put their minds to it.

Lets have more talk about federation. Pulling together, supporting our Caribbean brothers and sisters, sharing knowledge, resources and applying ourselves together to the task of building post-tourism economies has got to be part of the way forward.

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About the writer

Darcus Howe

Darcus Howe is an outspoken writer, broadcaster and social commentator. His TV work includes ‘White Tribe’ in which he put Anglo-Saxon Britain under the spotlight. He also fronted a series called Devil’s Advocate.

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