Helen Lewis

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Taste of a nation

Is there such a thing as English cuisine?

Is there such a thing as an English cuisine? It is telling that we've even had to borrow the word from the French. As far back as 1861, Mrs Beeton was lamenting that: "Modern cookery stands so greatly indebted to the gastronomic propensities of our French neighbours that many of their terms are adopted and applied by English artists."

And it's not just our near neighbours whose food we've co-opted: the American turkey has replaced the pre-Victorian choice of goose or duck at Christmas and Sir Walter Raleigh's potatoes quickly overtook earlier staple root vegetables. Indeed, very few historically "English" delicacies stand up to scrutiny as such, from roast beef (we were a nation of boilers for most of our history, according to the chef Fergus Henderson) to the ubiquitous cuppa, as imported from our colonies.

Startlingly, the menu -- sorry, "bill of fare" -- from which Chaucer or Shakespeare would have eaten is full of ingredients and recipes that are all but forgotten today. As Annette Hope records in Londoners' Larder, a medieval noble would have eaten birds such as larks and heron and had his "worts" -- root vegetables -- supplemented by dandelions, hyssop and nettles. The best-known cookbook (or scroll) of the late 14th century, The Forme of Cury, contained recipes for peacock and porpoise, as well as the lampreys that famously did for Henry I.

The other side of the coin is that many foreign dishes came to England far earlier than you might think. The Forme of Cury also offers recipes for "macrows" (macaroni cheese) and "rauioles" (ravioli), meaning that these were eaten in England well before bangers and mash or strawberries and cream. The latter, after all, was reputedly first paired up by Thomas Wolsey -- although the native wild strawberry he would have eaten, Fragaria vesca, has since been cast aside in favour of larger varieties.

Similarly, the English had a thing for spices well before the first curry house opened in Portman Square in London in 1809. The country was an enthusiastic importer in the Middle Ages -- after all, our only native spice is mustard. Saffron Walden in Essex was called Chipping Walden until it became the nation's centre of saffron-growing in the 1500s; and ginger -- now the mainstay of countless Thai and Chinese takeaways -- arrived then, too.

Seen against this background, the emergence of that ultimate British bastard dish -- chicken tikka masala -- seems almost inevitable. Some claim it originated as Punjabi street food in the 1850s, others that it's the result of an Indian chef in Glasgow, armed only with a tin of condensed tomato soup, trying to appease a customer who had complained that his meal was too dry. Whatever the truth, we order it by the bucketload -- and now export it to hotels in India.

The result of all this mixing and matching is that although many regional English dishes still survive, it's hard to pinpoint a distinctive cuisine in the way you might with France or Italy. According to the latest figures from the British Hospitality Association, we now have 11,000 "ethnic" restaurants (primarily Chinese and Indian but increasingly Mexican, too) and 5,500 "European" restaurants in this country. That leaves 11,000 "other" restaurants -- tellingly, the association doesn't record how many are English or British. "It's very difficult to define," says a spokesman.

It's probably most helpful to think of English food as being like the English language: unusually elastic and relaxed about incorporating foreign influences, even at the expense of its own identity. But when you can walk along a high street in even a smallish English town and smell peri-peri, cinnamon and garlic alongside the salty tang of fish and chips, who would have it any other way?

Helen Lewis-Hasteley is an assistant editor of the New Statesman

50 comments

Keir's picture

Meat, fish, dairy products, legumes, brassicas, root vegetables, hard and soft fruit, beers and ciders, spirits, British grown examples of all of these are either the among the best raw foods in the world, or are the best in the world, and are more satisfying, long term, than most. They need no cupboard full of spices, no drowning in herbs and sauces. They are best left to 'speak' for themselves. The best food needs no 'cuisine'. Just sensible, minimal treatment.

triedeinsursE's picture

Mr D. Our cheese comes right off the farm. I'm not a big beer drinker but many restaurants have their own brewing permit. I can say that our wines as as good as anything the French have.

Mr. Divine's picture

Is kissing a form of eating?

Mr. Divine's picture

Would anyone like a kiss?

Lusitanus's picture

Suet puddings - especially Sussex Pond Pudding

Keir's picture

Chips were 3d. Or four penn'orth for a large.

But breakfasts of home-cured bacon, and eggs from our own hens, with home-baked crusty white bread, were what I recall most vividly.

With a cuppa, of course. :)

triedeinsursE's picture

Mr D.

I guess that beats shoving them up the cats ass and having them incubate for 25 minutes.

triedeinsursE's picture

"Suet puddings - especially Sussex Pond Pudding"

Is their anything you people will not boil?

Mr. Divine's picture

ET: I've heard that Welsh Leaks came from a leak in the empty pipe that stretches from ear to ear.

Mr. Divine's picture

Buckskins: I don't think you should criticise British produce when the US only sugared water for beer. Great British ales, they are brilliant.

And what about the brilliant British cheeses? Cheshire, Lancashire, Stilton .. the US only has squashed milk.

Mr. Divine's picture

Sorry Kier, its really late in the meal and I'm just too smashed to focus on the words. Do you say wanted another drink?

matt s's picture

staffordshire oatcakes

Mr. Divine's picture

Yorkshire Pudding, Black Pudding, Custard Pudding.
Fish Cake, Fish Pie, Fish Fingers
Christmas Cake, Eccles Cake, Black Forest Gateau

triedeinsursE's picture

Mr D. When you get done with that. Try some boiled dog. Buffalo chips being the desired fuel.

Mr. Divine's picture

Do veggies multiple as a result of this cooking method?

Mr. Divine's picture

I liked the American breakfasts. When I had spent the night under the trees I used to love having a huge breakfast. Then I would keep cycling.

Yes lovely Californian wine. Actually the best restaurants are cheap family ones in rural Asia when the produce is local and fresh.

Mr. Divine's picture

I think I've drank too much and the boiled horse steak is going to come up along with the boiled sausage meat.

triedeinsursE's picture

Hi Keir, Sussex Pond Pudding is steamed, in fact the suet not so long ago was boiled in a cloth. Lox is gonna be in my stuff for this but here goes anyway. I bought a couple of swords from a guy in Scotland, he then invited us to stay for what I guess they call up there Tea Time. Here's what he did. He boiled water in this huge pot.He then chucked in some chopped vegetables. Lots of onions and potatoes.He then yanks out a couple of lbs of 2 different types of sausage.....wait for it.....and dumps them in the boiling water.After a half hour or so we get it ladled into a soup plate. I looked at the slurry on my plate, the sausages had turned GRAY, and so had I.

Mr. Divine's picture

I thought someone would take a bite at that but I didn't know it would be you. I suppose with all those cups of tea you must know your cakes.

Did you know that Sir Walter Raleigh has nothing to do with potatoes? It's one of those myths. I read somewhere that potatoes came 'via' Italy and were present in England before Raleigh.

Keir's picture

Aren't people gluttons for punishment!

Mr. Divine's picture

Lancashire Hot Pot

Mr. Divine's picture

I did tell you about the time I took some magic mushrooms in Lake Toba (Sumatra) and the place had two dogs that went off to be butchered. We used to call them chicken curry and beef stew. Dog was on the menu.

triedeinsursE's picture

Ask his Cat.

triedeinsursE's picture

Here is yet another of Scotland's treats.(I say Scotland because thats where this..meal..was served up to us.

Take some ground up fatty hamburger meat. I bet you can guess the next move?.. Dump it in boiling water...I'm not making this up..Stir on a low heat for 45 minutes or so....Now pour the results over boiled (of course) potatoes. Walla...yet one more weapon to fight the Scottish winter with. Some hardy folks up yonder.

fdfdfd's picture

@ Mr Divine

I'm afraid Black Forest gateau is German, and I have my doubts about black pudding too! It was a real eye-opener finding out how many dishes we've nicked over the centuries...

Keir's picture

'Now pour the results over boiled (of course) potatoes.'

What is wrong with boiled potatoes?

Mr. Divine's picture

I'm just drinking an average pinot noir and enjoying a few bongs of home grown pure non-fertilised grass. It's 'super' ace stuff. American Beauty .. you try that for most of your life. Do you wanna join me? The weather here is beaut, it's groundhog stuff. Temps around 23/25 cool nights and dead sunny no wind weather.

The real taste of a land comes at certain times and harvest time is one great time in all lands. Lets praise the harvest. And lands well they are land, we are only managers, in some small and big way.

PS. So you didn't wanna kiss?

Helen: where's that cake? And do you wanna a kiss?

It's been a great meal. Or shall we go on eating like Henry the 8th?

Keir's picture

Like Sussex scones, baked with fruit and milk? Or queen pudding, and bread and butter pudding, likewise baked in an oven? Do you know that of which you speak?

Cornish pasties? Scotch pancakes? Melton Mowbray pork pies? Yorkshire parkins? Chelsea buns, Abernethy biscuits, Eccles cakes, Dundee cakes? Victoria sponges? Charlottes, crumbles, pies of meats and poultry, onions and mushrooms, green vegetables, cheese and fruits? Salads? Kedgerees? Which of these is much acquainted with hot water?

Alright, purple-sprouting broccoli and asparagus are steamed, and potatoes are boiled, but are often then mashed with butter to make a very delicious accompaniment to, say, fried sausages of pork with sage.

To say nothing of other meats and fish, which are generally roasted, grilled or fried, or cooked slowly in a rich, unctuous liquor.

And there's nothing like real gravy from Angus beef or Welsh lamb.

We really should feel sorry for poor foreigners. :)

Mr. Divine's picture

I gave Buckskins some of that grass (he doesn't normally smoke) and I laced it with magic mushrooms. The last time I saw him he was claiming he was the reincarnation of John Wayne and had come on a Red Horse, the Second Seal in the Book of Revelations.

Keir's picture

'I'm just drinking'

Unfortunately not.

Mr. Divine's picture

Remembering certain meals can be even better than actually eating them.

Did you have sushi for lunch Helen?

Keir's picture

'They're mine.'

I humbly beg your pardon. I'll make do with Chorley cakes. :)

And one could go on and on around the towns and regions.

You see, nobody can argue that the British do not have a very respectable 'cuisine' of their own- much of which involves no ebullition whatever, except what occurs in a dry oven, if boiling really matters. The aforementioned Sussex pud is not a watery affair, anyway.

'Does anyone else here think that the author, Helen, should invite the blog commentators to a slap up old English style dinner at her place?'

Maybe we could invite Helen to twenty dinner parties, of English fare, without repetition of any dish. I'd be happy to provide the menus, sorry, bills of fare. Perhaps one would have to include the odd bottle of wine from across the channel, but many of those, by rights, belong to the English Crown anyway! :)

Mr. Divine's picture

Why not Kier? Go on just the one?

Mr. Divine's picture

@Kier: I've already mentioned Eccles cake. They're mine.

My grandad was a cook in the army in the 1930s. After he worked as a sausage and black pudding maker. He liked his whiskey.

Does anyone else here think that the author, Helen, should invite the blog commentators to a slap up old English style dinner at her place?

Mr. Divine's picture

Any time I'm feeling peckish recently I've come to this post, and reread the past comments and wonder what I've got in the fridge. Absolutely nowt. It's mid afternoon I could do with a coffee and a scone. I'm a caffeine addict at the moment, 12 cups in one day. It's playing havoc with my innards and it isn't doin much good to my outers as well. And the bits inbetween the outer and the inner are also suffering, intensely at times.

Mr. Divine's picture

@Buckskins: Sounds like your Scottish sword seller had the basic approach to cooking downpat. I went to this Texan man's house and he lay all the vegetables in a row and urinated on them. That was his cooking method. He called it the "Taking the Piss", a form of flash woking.

triedeinsursE's picture

Not a thing Mr Keir.

Keir's picture

Read carefully.

When sober.

Mr. Divine's picture

It sounds like your Scottish eating experience was one gourmet dish after another.

Mr. Divine's picture

I'll bring the local produce of Australia at this time of year. Let me assure you it will go own with a hit.

ChurchillDexter's picture

The real taste of a land comes at certain times and harvest time is one great time in all lands. Lets praise the harvest. And lands well they are land, we are only managers, in some small and big way. http://www.bathroomremodelingtips.net/

Mr. Divine's picture

Buckskins is probably busy with the fires in Texas.

jie4v7i14's picture

Chicken Tikka Masala? Originates in England.

And yes, cakes is English cuisine - flour, eggs and sugar with anything, baked, ate with a pot of tea, of course.

jie4v7i14's picture

Mr. Divine - there is a story that spuds came via Ireland, when some got washed up on the west coast of Ireland from Spanish Armarda wrecks from the storms, and the Irish planted and ate them when they saw them growing on the seashore afterwards, in the sixteenth century.

Mr. Divine's picture

Me: What's wrong with boiled horse steak?
Buckskins: Not a thing Mr. Divine.

triedeinsursE's picture

English cuisine, that would be curried chips and a Mars bar. For a more definitive answer simply enter a British restaurant when you are overseas. A British restaurant, why do you think there is such a plethora of them world wide ????

Mr. Divine's picture

Those bottles of wine certainly do belong to the British Crown and shall be opened when I next get back to England and no sooner. Keep them on ice.

I always remember me first trip on me own to the chippie. I was about seven years old in Liverpool and I got some chips from the local chippie with about 6d. I remember the salt.

How about you Kier, what's your first 'food'?

triedeinsursE's picture

Hi Helen, I should think any country with a history of raising domestic animals could claim Black Pudding as theirs.

Mr. Divine's picture

Taste of A Nation

yummy yummy yummy.

triedeinsursE's picture

Mr D. the national dish of Wales is seaweed!!

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