Fish fingers, the inside story

My how the tables have turned

It's quite exciting really, to think that newspapers in other countries publish articles about stupid things we do. It's like when you pick up a guidebook to the UK in another country and you remember that yes, people do come here on holiday! Or perhaps it's not like that at all, but anyway, this South African newspaper has had a good look at our eating habits.

Now some might read the article and think it paints a narrow, stereotypical view of the British and our culinary traditions. We are now a nation of foodies, don't you know, with truffle risotto and spelt and gluten-free bananas. We don't eat deep-fried Mars Bars any more, actually.

I got quite excited, however, about the development in fish-finger technology the article refers to. I'm being serious. This is pretty big news -- proper, crispy fish fingers! They may mock in South Africa with their Table Mountain and lovely weather, but in fact this is really quite momentous. Unfortunately, the Mail and Guardian seems to find it all rather wryly amusing:

Due in supermarkets next month, Young's Micro Fish Fingers "could be the fast-food breakthrough of the decade", opined the Grocer, the food industry trade journal in Britain.

Oh so now you're mocking our trade magazines, are you?

Before I work myself into a lather, let me leave you with this wonderful fact that ends the piece:

With Britain in recession, the fish finger market has grown 7 per cent in the past year to £131 million, the Grocer reported, citing a Nielsen market study.

That's right, South Africa, we like fish fingers. Crispy ones especially.








Sophie Elmhirst is features editor of the New Statesman

Photo: Getty
Show Hide image

Philip Hammond's house gaffe is a reminder of what the Tories lost when David Cameron left

The Chancellor of the Exchequer's blunder confirmed an old fear about the Conservative Party. 

Philip Hammond got into a spot of bother this morning describing the need for a transitional agreement with the European Union by comparing it to moving into a house, saying: "you don't necessarily move all your furniture in on the first day you buy it”.

This immediately surprised a lot of people, because for most people, you do, in fact, move all of your furniture in on the first day you buy a house. Or rent a house, or a flat, or whatever. Most people who buy houses are part of housing chains – that is, they sell their house to raise some of the capital to buy another one, or, if they are first-time buyers, they are moving from the private rented sector into a house or flat of their own.

They don’t, as a rule, have a spare bolthole for “all their furniture” to wait around in. Hammond’s analogy accidentally revealed two things – he is rich, and he owns more than one home. (I say “revealed”. Obviously these are things you can find out by checking the register of members’ interests, but they are, at least, things that are not immediately obvious hearing Hammond speak.)

That spoke to one major and recurring Conservative weakness: that people see them as a party solely for the rich. Focus groups conducted by BritainThinks consistently showed that when people were asked which group of TV families might vote Conservative, the only one that people consistently picked were the “posh couple” from GoggleBox.

David Cameron’s great achievement as Conservative leader was in winning two elections – the first, in 2010, the most successful night for the Conservatives since 1931, with 97 gains overall, the second, their first parliamentary majority for 23 years – despite being a graduate of Eton and Oxford leading a party that most voters fear will only look out for the rich.

He did it by consistently speaking and acting as if he were significantly less well-to-do than he was. Even his supposed 2013 gaffe when asked what the price of bread was – when he revealed that he preferred to use a breadmaker – projected a more down-to-earth image than his background suggested His preferred breadmaker cost a hundred quid and could easily have been found in any upper-middle class home in any part of his country. One of Cameron’s great successes was in presenting himself as an affable upper-middle-class dad to the nation, when he was in fact, well-to-do enough to employ a literal breadmaker had he so chosen.

This is slightly unfair on Philip Hammond who went to a state school in Essex and is by any measure less posh than Cameron. But his gaffe speaks to their big post Cameron problem (and indeed their big pre-Cameron problem) which is that while many conservative ideas are popular, the Conservative Party isn’t. Most of their big politicians are a turn-off, not a turn-on.

And until they can find a genuine replacement for David Cameron, miserable results like 2017 may become the norm, rather than the exception. 

Stephen Bush is special correspondent at the New Statesman. His daily briefing, Morning Call, provides a quick and essential guide to domestic and global politics.

0800 7318496