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Farewell from Fair Isle

Malachy Tallack's last blog from Britain's remotest place reflects on a very different way of living


When I began writing these short pieces for the New Statesman a year ago, I was reacting in part to what I felt were misrepresentations and misunderstandings of life in the Northern Isles that were appearing with some regularity in the national media.

The islands, and Fair Isle in particular, were portrayed as somehow old fashioned – relics of an era long since forgotten elsewhere. The people who lived here were too often caricatured as naïve and idealistic, backward-looking, or, worse, as mere museum pieces, existing solely for the entertainment of our visitors.

I wanted to write an alternative story; one that did not treat island life as an eccentric curiosity, or as a polar opposite to the ‘normal life’ that is lived elsewhere. I wanted to write about the realities of living here – the problems as well as the pleasures – and to do this without adding too much of a romantic sheen. I also wanted to ask myself what exactly it is that makes places like Fair Isle different, and specifically what it is about this particular community that visitors and islanders find so refreshing and worthwhile. On this last point I am quite sure that I have not succeeded, but I wanted to offer here a few final thoughts.

There is a common misconception about Fair Isle’s community, which I think is perpetuated by the tendency to consider it as being a cohesive unit, rather than a nebulous group of individuals. Fair Isle is not a community that is sustained by any kind of heady idealism, or by a desire for ‘like-minded’ communal living. It is a community of individuals, often with very different opinions and ideas, who simply choose to consider their neighbours’ interests as well as their own.

We do this, I think, for two reasons, both of which involve a recognition of something that can elsewhere remain hidden. Firstly, there is the recognition that each person has some sort of role, no matter how ill-defined, within the community. Many of us have jobs that are needed for the maintenance of essential services; others may simply offer a different way of looking at things. But each of us relies, quite literally, upon a network of other people, sharing this island with us. While this fact remains true wherever you live, it is often difficult to see.

The second reason is that people here recognise that the community, as a social group, is itself worth sustaining – that there is something here to sustain. Most people feel no need to define that something, just to acknowledge it. It is related, I would suggest, to an entirely natural and instinctive desire to be part of a functioning social group. After all, that is how human beings, as social animals, have evolved. But it is a feeling that is increasingly hard to find in other places today.

The community works so long as most people, most of the time, are able to remember and accept that their own interests are not always consistent with those of their neighbours, and that everyone benefits by acting with this in mind. This seems to me to be an entirely healthy and natural social order, and one that is completely alien to the hierarchical structures of power and wealth that now binds society together throughout most of the West. It is this naturalness that I think visitors notice when they come here, even for a short time; the feeling that, somehow, this is how it is meant to be.

Anyone who travels in the remote parts of Scotland, and particularly in the Western and Northern Isles, will have come across the evidence of abandonment. Old crofts and cottages lie derelict, ruined. Whole villages and islands that once were populated are now entirely empty of people. It can be a depressing sight. This island could very easily have gone the same way. But it did not.

For me, Fair Isle is a place of great hope. People here work hard to maintain something that they truly believe in, something that they cannot find anywhere else. What they find on this island is a real community of individuals, a natural and native order of things, and a satisfaction that springs not so much from a way of life, but a way of living.

Many thanks to Dave Wheeler for all his wonderful photographs.

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8 comments from readers

Fairislefaerie
28 January 2008 at 11:15

And now we will once again sink back into being a curiosity to the rest of the world & to quote a recent visitor aboard one of the many cruise ships that stop for a day here "Having us tourists visit en-mass must give you something constructive to do with your day"

At least, through Malachy we existed as something other than entertainment.

Fiona
30 January 2008 at 14:46

Sorry to see this is your last article, I've really enjoyed reading them.

Kathy Crofter
30 January 2008 at 19:18

I know lots of people who have read, and enjoyed your island insights. Thanks for taking the time to write it so thoughtfully, and to Dave for the great photos. Ironically, it is my main job to entertain visitors. One of the aspects they enjoy most is being able to see glimpses of the 'way things were' either through the continuation of traditional crafts, music and crofting skills or visiting the museum. But whatever misconceptions the media may have presented to them, their expectations are, I think, always exceeded by the reality of being here. So, on the nights when the broadband goes off at 11.30pm with everything else, and I light a few candles that are not for 'effect', I can forgive my guests for going off to bed to dream about bygone days! Forward thinking comes again in the morning!!

Thanks again Malachy. All the best.

Ali
31 January 2008 at 00:55

Your blog has been a treat to read Malachy - full of interest and eloquence, and a great weekly escape for a (semi-)city girl dreaming of a quieter life. Great gig in Blackburn too! Best wishes.

leenenina
01 February 2008 at 08:24

I am very sorry to read your blog, being your last one! For me it was a great day, every time I could read a new one. I really do have a very sad feeling about what you are writing but for me fair Isle is a place where people are living in a way you cannot find elsewhere.

It is the scale of living, the hospitality for all who are viisiting the Isle and so on. Walking and working on the Isle as a visitor, you don't have the feeling of being a tourist at all. That is great!

I wish you all the vbest Malachy, thank you very much!

Maureen
08 February 2008 at 22:25

About 30 years ago I read an article about Fair Isle and hoped I would get the opportunity to visit this remote island. Tonight after reading Malachy's last blog I am once again determined to make the trip from South Africa to Fair Isle to experience its uniqueness for myself! Cheers Maureen

jlglen48
09 April 2008 at 19:37

Sorry to have just found this site. My ancestors came from Fair Isle and I have long wished to "see" it and learn about the residents adn life in Fair Isle. Thank you for your insights, your sharing, and to Dave for the great photos. I can only dream of traveling to Fair Isle.. but I have long held it in my heart as "home".

malteser
16 July 2009 at 22:09

Good work Malachy. I had the opportunity to live for 2 years in Shetland.I visited Yell ,Unst, and whalsay. Mainland Shetland is a great place but the islands are magical.Probably it is the peace tranquility,and the people that make them so.

On second taughts one need not worry what went in the making of a delicious cake.It is delicious,so let us enjoy it.After all,we do not always have to come up with answers for all the questions we might ask. I must admit though ,that you hit the nail on its head in explaining what makes fair isle special.

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