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Glamourising the nettle

  • Posted by Jonathan Dawson
  • 08 September 2008

Dissatisfaction with indigenous foodtuffs is a growing problem for those among us who believe that it is important to increase our local food security

The question of food security seems to be very alive in the community at the moment. This is an area where I think it is fair to say that there has been a pretty high level of satisfaction with our efforts over the years.

Our Earthshare scheme was the UK’s first organic, community-supported agriculture (CSA) farm, providing weekly local, fresh veggies to the equivalent of 200 families every week of the year. (CSA is a now widespread model in which the subscribers divide the harvest between them, thus sharing the risk with the farmer.)

Moreover, the 2006 ecological footprint study of our community found that our food footprint is about one third of the national average due to the relatively high level of local, organic, seasonal and vegetarian food in our diet.

However, it has become clear in recent months that all is not as rosy in the garden as appears at first sight and that there remains much to be done.

An internal study found that while 32 per cent of the vegetables served in the community kitchens are organic and 27 per cent are locally-sourced, only 18 per cent are both. Most of us were surprised and a little shocked by how low these figures were.

They can be explained partly because of the large number of mouths that need to be fed – remember that we host in the region of 3,000 guests per year in addition to the resident community; partly because of the higher cost of local, organic food in a global market so heavily weighted towards large-scale, industrial production systems; and partly because of an appetite for foodstuffs that the local climate and soils cannot provide.

Photography by Adriana Sjan Bijman

Dissatisfaction with indigenous foodtuffs is a growing problem for those among us who believe that it is important to increase our local food security. Christopher, one of the mainstays of our gardening team over the years, notes: ‘for every cabbage that gets sold in the community shop, we sell 20 aubergines’. The Mediterranean diet is going global.

This is certainly a factor in the reduction over the years in the number of subscribers to Earthshare. It is currently around 20 families short of its optimal level.

Every so often I hear of a community in France or Italy boasting of the fact that it has decided to increase its consumption of local, seasonal food. They really want recognition for that, I think? Let them try it here!

So, in this context, we need to be clever in our efforts to increase production and consumption of food that truly nurtures us without depleting ecosystems on the other side of the world.

The main avenue we are exploring at the moment is the introduction of greater food storage and processing facilities – and the Climate Challenge Fund mentioned a couple of blogs ago may just be a useful source of funding for this.

Doesn’t root vegetable pâté with chives sound so much more appetizing than another plate of beetroot and parsnips? Doesn’t a good, local apple and blackberry pie can beat the pants off any fancy, Mediterranean fruit picked before it is ripe and squished by the journey?

Meanwhile, in the week’s Rainbow Bridge (our weekly community newsletter), I note that we are receiving a visit from Frank Cook from Schumacher College who has studied with ‘herbalists, shamans, vaidyas, sangomas, green witches, doctors, professors and medicine men’. Great stuff!

Frank will be giving a talk on ‘Community as Food and Medicine Security’ and leading afternoon workshops on identifying and eating wild weeds and food fermentation techniques. I will certainly be attending both. We need all the help we can get in our efforts to glamourise the nettle and the humble broad bean.


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4 comments from readers

Russ Purvis
11 October 2008 at 20:42

Hi Jonathan,

Learning to get creative with local food sources may become commonplace again. One of the best dinners I've ever eaten was a sweet and sour cabbage with reindeer feast in Finland! Cabbage with some skill provides sauerkraut, pickling does some amazing wonders with cucumbers, and milk provides us with butter, yogurt and cheese. Wild crafting in the form of free no work salad can be wonderful during the appropriate seasons. Rose hips are a great source of vitamin C when the lemon tree isn’t producing :) And don't forget about the wonders of Nature that can be nurtured in your local climate but that come from elsewhere. Remember those Scots that brought the giant redwood/sequoia trees from N. America that grow very well indeed? There are a wide assortment of apples, some sour cherries, and many berries: blueberries, saskatoons, raspberries, haskaps, etc. that do well in Canada, Korea, and Siberia that ,if not already, would flourish in Scotland.

Another altogether different point to come to grips with is that organic food production is often labor intensive. Like work in the CC, it would be beneficial on a number of levels for everyone to get dirt under their fingernails from time to time. After a few freshly munched peas in the garden this usually becomes less of an issue, especially, if money becomes less abundant.

Happy gardening and Bon Appetit!

gnuneo
26 November 2008 at 22:02

hmm, not sure how many will read this, but i would like to ask a question, and hear some responses if possible.

which of these two would be regarded as better by you:

1. Organic, fair trade produce that comes a long distance,

2. Local, monoculture agribusiness produce?

i realise these are not the only two choices of course, i am more interested in what you/the readers of this page would regard as the relative harm of these two choices ecologically/socially/economically.

please comment if you have an opinion!

gnuneo
30 November 2008 at 23:25

someone must have an opinion on this!

personally i think that it is more important to focus upon fairtrade and good ecological practise, even if those goods have to travel a further distance. It is possible (and will soon be necessary) to create non (or low) pollution long distance cargo-travel - hydrogen powered airships immediately crop up as a possibility - whereas agribusiness, even local, is harmful across the board.

that is my position, if anyone wishes to comment. Don't be afraid, i only bite those who growl at me! ;D

marttinburo
09 January 2009 at 19:20

Hi gnuneo,

The footprint calculation program that I use would agree with you: it gives a 20% discount for organic food and 15% for both local and seasonal food. The discounts are multiplicative, giving a 43% discount for organic local seasonal food.

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About the writer

Jonathan Dawson

Jonathan Dawson is a sustainability educator based at the Findhorn Foundation in Scotland. He is seeking to weave some of the wisdom accrued in 20 years of working in Africa into more sustainable and joyful ways of living here in Europe. Jonathan is also a gardener and a story-teller and is President of the Global Ecovillage Network.

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