Curves ahead is hardly progress
The occasional use of "curvy" models does not make it one jot easier for troubled young women to live in our own skin.
By Laurie Penny Published 23 September 2010 9:58
This fall, the fashion press is celebrating 'the return of curves'. With London Fashion Week in full swing, designers and photographers are congratulating themselves on what has been dubbed a 'catwalk revolution', amounting to a handful of models weighing up to 170 pounds featuring on a handful of runways, the feting of designers like Erdem Moralioglu who occasionally make dresses in a size 16, and the paparazzi mobbing poor, expansively-bosomed Christina Hendricks every time she gets out of a taxi.
'Curves', it appears, are back in style. This means that women whose skeletons are less than entirely visible through their skin will now be permitted to doff our sackloths of shame and go to parties with fashion people. Well, roll up the banners, ladies, and put away the placards: it's the greatest achievement for feminism since equal pay.
It is rather a sad indictment of the scope and ambition of the modern women's movement that the limited return of 'curves' to the fashion zeitgeist is being treated as serious progress. In case anyone hadn't noticed, meaningful social revolutions do not tend to happen on the catwalk. The last style 'revolution' was the re-introduction of jodhpurs to the fashion-forward female's aspirational wardrobe in the terrible autumn of 2008, and we all know how that ended. Feminism has come so far, it seems, that we're now supposed to be grateful that fashion editors have graciously allowed a few models to appear in public with one or even two obscene spare inches of subcutaneous fat.
This particular runway revolution has an element of the freak show about it. Roll up, the press seems to be hollering, roll up and see the amazing meal-eating women! Besides previewing the socks, skirts and unlikely headdresses that are going to be in style in 2011, the circus of Fashion Week also showcases what type of woman will be in vogue next season, and oddly enough, this year's on-trend female looks surprisingly similar to the identikit models who crowded the runways at Fashion Week last year: she is young, white, slender, pretty, fragile, obedient and silent.
Used by fashion editors and PRs, the word 'curves' smacks offensively of euphemistic posturing. In today's post-watershed world, where you can stream five channels of hardcore coprophilia over your cornflakes at breakfast, why is female flesh still so horrifying that we still have to have a polite euphemism for it? 'Curves', in fact, have always existed - as, for that matter, have love handles, cellulite, scars, dimples, fat thighs, chunky calves, bad hair, broad shoulders, big boobs, round arses and turkey necks. Shocking though it might sound, women with these ghastly personal attributes have just as much right to self-esteem and social status as young, beautiful catwalk models.
In this context, getting excited about the 'return' of curves is just one more way of obsessively scrutinising women's bodies, fetishising female flesh and particularly female fat as somehow shocking, abnormal, edgy. Female fat is not edgy. It's not an unusual fashion trend. It's everyday reality for over three billion human beings on this planet. I'm sitting in nine and a half stone of it right now, and let me tell you, it's gloriously mundane.
It wasn't always like this. Not so long ago I was easily as scrawny as a catwalk model, because I happened to be in the grip of a life-threatening eating disorder that stole five years of my youth and caused my family and friends no small amount of unnecessary heartbreak. As a recovered anorexic, I'm supposed to be particularly pleased that 'curves' are back in style, given that everyone knows little girls only get eating disorders because their brains overheat from looking at too many fashion magazines, and not because of any sort of unrelenting social pressure on women of all ages to work harder, look prettier and take up as little space as possible.
Take it from me: noticing a few extra inches of fat on the relentless images of silent, costly feminine perfection that bombard us every day does not make it one jot easier for troubled young women to live in our own skin. The things that make a difference are things that cannot be sold, or advertised, or crammed into a gushing press release. They are simple things, like time and patience, love and security, tolerance and respect; vital things, like understanding that adult sexuality isn't just about submission and servility, like believing that what we do and who we are might be more important than what we look like. That type of personal and political revolution is something that the fashion industry, with its inability to imagine women who are not silent commodities or faceless consumers, will never be able to deliver.
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103 comments
The fashion industry is obsessed with "trends".
This not only dooms some women (& men) to desparately run around every couple of months to get a "look" but also any so called "progress".
Its the reason Naomi Campbell would rather "go naked than wear fur" a few years back and then was seen out and about wearing the full, died in agony- anally electrocuted, probably still conscious at time of death - animal skin.
It wasn't cool no more baby! and thus she affected that very fashion-like indifference thats like so in now dahling.
Fashion is the archetypal insensitive fairweather friend on "controversies" like this.
As Julie Burchill once said:
"To my mind, following fashion is rather like masturbating or making silent phone calls to ex-lovers after midnight; sort of cute and inevitable when you're young, but indicating a rather tragic lack of life once you're old enough to vote."
+++Another brilliant article from Laurie.
Right.. so a former anorexic is complaining about curves. Okay. That's so totally unpredictable.
Sorry but please indulge me with more quotes from Julie Burchill on fashion, it's just too good!(I hope you agree):
"No, fashion is the rapture of the dullard, the ecstacy of the castrated - furthermore, it is the actual eroticisation of one's castrated state."
and....
"All the fuss about showing "real"-sized models; what on earth is so good about having an even wider range of women objectified?"
and....
"Fashion is shallow and mercenary and without any intrinsic worth; that's why it's called fashion."
from the guardian 01/02/2002
mr divine, i had 2 pints of sweet cider happy hour £3.15p a pint, so yes i never waste a drop of my of my cider even though some bloke in his 70s sitting next to me was annoying me about whoo hoo look at the bum and tits on that blonde bint serving on the next table, see these girls have to do table service with trays with there bums and tits hanging out and now wonder why these old fellas get excited thats probably why they go in these bars.
Having a so-called 'curvy' body for some, is just as difficult as obtaining a 'skinny' body for others.
The 'curvy' trend is a complete misnomer. There are acceptable places to have your so-called curves : tits and arse, and unacceptable places : eg. your stomach.
Christina Hendricks is a case in point. She has an hour-glass figure. Very big breasts and full hips with a tiny waist. Anyone without her body type has no hope of achieving her proportions. Her body shape is just as unattainable as that of Kate Moss.
Real progress would mean accepting all body shapes and sizes and even those attached to supposedly 'ugly' faces.
Capitalism didn't define beauty, nature did, and always has done. It works for both sexes, the fact that Hollywood has always made money out of it is another matter. Consequently it seems both male and female are happy paying to view it!
''see these girls have to do table service with trays with there bums and tits hanging out''
Ummmm no they don't. Slavery was abolished some time ago. They don't HAVE to do anything they personally find demeaning. No doubt they are laughing all the way to the bank with the tips they are making from the 'old fellas'
So who is exploiting whom?
Sciamachy,
You assume that I have never done tabletop roleplaying, nor never played a horrible warty orc. Those are mighty big assumptions. I'm a GEEK, remember?
well see how quick the bar would empty if dawn french or ann widdicombe pitched up in hot pants and crop tops ha ha ha.
@kay: They dont have tories in the US - Buckskins is a Yank and I am a Brit so we are not the same person. Btw, it was you that claimed it was biological research when you said "most men find most women at least somewhat sexually attractive, whereas most women do not find most men sexually attractive at all". So you cant now backtrack claiming I misinterpreted it and say it was a Julie Burchill quote all along.
@EhtchTee: Still see your continuing with the tedious YouTube linkage. Whats worse is that your now including your poor daughter - does she know that her Dad is peddaling her out in such a fashion ? I will try to get through to you in your own language but this is how your coming across Ehtch:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RrVxcc2ZV0I
I think Peter sellers summed up the fashion industry with a sketch in the early sixties - at the end of every catwalk run, he would describe the clothes and the designer, always followed by "And he HATES women..."
Plus ca change Laurie...
Ben Stiller did a great take on the Male Fashion industry; the same could be said of the Womens side, only more so. But Size Zero is not funny at all. Size 16 is ok to aspire to.
Your voice is valuable. So glad you exist.
I dont see what all the fuss is about.
Can larger women find clothes that fit? Yes there are lots of retailers for the larger frame.
Can taller thin women find clothes that fit? There are only a couple of retailers worldwide that produce clothing for these women, even then you are paying a premium. If I didnt still do some modelling, I would be in constant debt.
As a 6/8 5' 11" woman, I can say that buying clothes without spending lots for designer fashion is hard.
the blessings of being a muslim or anything non western
when i was at oxford i saw laurie penny at a play and even now remember seeing it. this is evidence of its strikingness. i am male.
Its just as bad for young men you know! Really, do you know how many of my male friends goto the gym regularly? All of them! You ain't a man if you don't have some meaty tits! That's the attitude at least.
But anyway, I can assure you this Laurie - 'fashion' is a female expectation. If there were no women in this world, we men would probably only change our underpants once a week. We would be free to expose our true essence without risk of female opression. That's in fact why I smoke and never brush my teeth. A female should accept me for my inner beauty - not my fresh breath damn it!
Honestly, though, I wouldn't date a girl that's size 16. Considering my own 32 waist, anything over size twelve would just too out of proportion.
@Buckskins,
ooh did I hit a nerve there? First of all I use the word beautiful for both sexes,if you feel a bit emasculated or vulnerable when someone calls you that, well you shouldn't you are still a man whether someone uses that word or not to describe you. Second of all please do not use the excuse of science or biology for the existence of conventional beauty. Yes it is biology that drives us to be attracted to one another but it is not biology that makes a man feel attracted to a size zero, white, slender,huge boobs, straigh looking, abled bodied woman, it is society.
Third of all what has having bad breath got to do with our discussion of conventional beauty being a product of society, one is about cleanliness and the other is about brain washing. If you like conventionally beautiful women, fine go ahead there is absolutely nothing wrong with it, as i said everyone is beautiful but please understand the reasoning behind it and don't use it's biology bullshit as most of our choices are formed due to the type of society we live in unfortunately, that is just fact.
And yes Laurie is pretty, so what is your point? In the end what I am trying to say and im sure Laurie would agree with me is that if you fail to see the beauty in people that are not considered to be beautiful by society, well...let's just say you are missing out on a lot of things in life as this is a sign that you just accept whatever society tells you and one of the main things you are missing out on is the ability to think and be free as a man who does not think for himself does not think at all (Oscar wilde). hope I gave you some insight into beauty and you are going to make further research and see that beauty is not really objective but subjective you beautiful boy^_^
It occurred to me this morning that other people do not experience themselves as I experience them, but as though they were selves themselves. That if they were internal to themselves as I am they therefore may not be aware of and so responsible for things I had perceived in them. That to themselves they weren't exteriors. That they didn't amount to what I saw them as.
Anyway. In the course of this convoluted post http://pitchpress.blogspot.com/2010/06/confounded-praise-of-emmy-great.html I glance at feminism without alienable profit.
Absolutely amazing article which holds true. Thank you so much. :D Also, I LOVE your writing.
@Findiglay - worse if anything. Were "curves" ever in for male fashions after about Henry VIII's time? When was the last time anyone saw a male model who wasn't either a bodybuilder or an androgynous skeleton? Given that the *average* male waist in the UK is 40" I think we have as much a case as women (average size 16) to have proper representation of the average male form & what these clothes would look like on them.
"Its just as bad for young men you know!"
Nah, I'm fine. Thanks anyway.
at the end of the day we live in a country where 250,000 girls and women were raped last year with a conviction rate of only 4%. childrens charitys estimate up 50,000 children meaning underage girls under the age of 14 are been groomed for sex and passed around by paedophile rings all over the uk in what the home office calls internal trafficking, when are feminists ever going to tackle these issues.
I take the point of the article, which is rooted in truth - adding the occasional normal- or plus-sized model to a catwalk or billboard is not going to rest of the problem - but I still see this baby step as a sign of progress. That doesn't make me complacent, and I think your article comes close to implying that it does.
'Curves', in fact, have always existed - as, for that matter, have love handles, cellulite, scars, dimples, fat thighs, chunky calves, bad hair, broad shoulders, big boobs, round arses and turkey necks. Shocking though it might sound, women with these ghastly personal attributes have just as much right to self-esteem and social status as young, beautiful catwalk models.
I know what you mean here, but lumping fat in with bad hair comes shade too close to fatphobia for my taste. I know that society thinks all fat is innately bad or unbeautiful but can we try not to fall into those traps in feminist writing, please?
Anyway, thanks for alerting to me that this season the fashion industry is nudging a smidgeon closer to reality. Honestly? I think it will help, a bit. The images surrounding us every day DO have an effect, as you've argued persuasively yourself before. Of course it's bigger and messier and more complicated than that, but I think it's a bit unhelpful to sneer at small improvements because not everything magically changes all at once.
Gosh! glad to see narcissism alive and well.
Suzette says: "I’m sure women who are less pretty than me get the same amount of male attention." miaow!
and this corker from Buckskins: "I was very fortunate in being born very good looking."
Well I suppose it was lucky you were as you're not highly developed in reasoning or modesty.
It obviously means alot to you to be seen in this way which is why I can't understand why you have to comment on it. Surely the adoration of your fans is enough? or just the wonder of looking at yourself in the mirror?
and Stuart, ok so you don't want fame but I hope you don't mind me saying that you ann widdecombe could come in handy for you in teaching you about syntax and grammar.
@Findiglay "out of proportion"?! Okay, I can understand those people unhappy that their own bodies are out of proportion, but are you seriously saying that you'd only date someone thin because YOU'RE thin, that you think you'd look too skinny if you dated a fat chick?
You know, I think that kind of attitude is almost worse than those who only date thin girls because thin is supposedly normal *cringe*
Helen - I wasn't trying to imply that all fat is bad or unbeautiful. Or, indeed, that 'bad hair' is bad or unbeautiful. Women who fall outside what the fashion and advertising industries decide is beautiful are often still good looking. But I still think that beauty isn't the most or only important criteria here, and for me that's the key thing to keep in mind.
I think as well as celebrating beauty at every size, it's terrifically important to celebrate ugliness. Yes, really! I mean, if we nudge the definition of beauty a few pounds heavier that still means that society only really sees women as valid if we're 'beautiful'. Shouldn't we, instead, be saying that we're just as valid as human beings and just as powerful as women if we happen NOT to be good looking? Why should we resign ourselves to constantly fighting to look and feel beautiful? Isn't it more important to feel powerful?
Personally, I'm far more interested in the power of ugly. I'm not entirely unattractive these days, but I fully intend at some point in the future to be a tiny, pudgy, round, wrinkled, warty old lady in a black dress with badly home-dyed hair and terrible teeth. I might smoke a pipe. And you know, I'll expect just as much respect then as I do now - more, in fact, because I'll hopefully have done a lot more to earn it and be older and wiser!
Loving Buckskins' work, but he should be reminded that until it becomes compulsory to upload a genuine personal photo to accompany each post, there is no such thing as ugly here. Online communities are a great leveller in that we can all be as beautiful as Buckskins claims to be, at least until some of our thoughts and words betray us and immediately render us ugly.
Still, if Buckskins would care to supply links to some personal pics he has online - his narcissism precludes their non-existence - I'm sure many of us here would be happy to bask in his pulchritude.
I may well be naive regarding some of these comments, but surely it's absurd to purely restrict feminine physical attractiveness to body shape. If our reasoning became that reductive then why isn't ('scrawny') Gillian McKeith, rather than ('curvy') Nigella Lawson, the TV cook more likely to send men's hearts aflutter? Sorry, but I feel Laurie's mention of coprophilia may have had some bearing on my invention of that peculiar juxtaposition.
Of course, the corollary of this line of thinking would be to consider a woman's countenance her predominant physical asset, yet facial beauty is just an inherited composite of serendipitous DNA. At least it's possible to change your body shape by adhering to the simple formula of 'eat less, exercise more'. Physiognomy, on the other hand, is (relatively) immutable.
Hmm, it's complicated being a bloke in a post-feminist world.
Laurie - come play World of Warcraft then! You could be a hideous troll or an orc. For all their horrible looks, the Horde leaders tend to be way more honourable than the genocidally-inclined Humans. I'm looking forward to being a warty green goblin soon.
thats a bit snobbish of you kay my darling.and how many time have i got to point out that my spelling and grammar is atrocious, that i accept,so get over it kay you toff.
Suzette - Your perspicacity had me sold right up until your penultimate paragraph. You may want to reconsider how this quote reads: "I’m sure women who are less pretty than me get the same amount of male attention. It’s so annoying."
Hmm, not entirely sure you meant it to come across that way, but I sense that some of the other female contributors here aren't so annoyed that you should have exclusivity on male attention (even though they may well be less pretty than yourself).
Of course you have every right not to feel flattered by the unsought attention you receive from ribald men, but after reading that passage, you can rest assured that you would never endure any such deference from myself. Call me "picky" but, regardless of body shape, I personally find there's no bigger turn-off than a woman with an overinflated opinion of her own attractiveness.
It's strange how you berate Buckskins for his arrogance while displaying similar narcissistic traits yourself - you're actually
more alike than you like to think and sound ideally suited. If both accounts of your allure are genuine, I'm sure you will bear preternaturally good-looking - if somewhat conceited - children.
You're in good company then :-) Actually the pipe-smoking warty old lady comment reminded me of PTerry's Lancre Witches. They were pretty cool.
Bugger! Should have refreshed the page before posting - my apologies if it looks like plagiarism kay.
Stop you f**king whining.
I really enjoyed this article because it's what a lot of people think but you rarely ever hear them say it. I'm not skinny but I'm not overweight (in my mind) either and I'm very happy with that. I'd rather be 'curvy' than super skinny and after years of worry I've come to the point where I am truly happy in my own skin. These 'curvy' models aren't going to revolutionise the modelling industry, but if they are taking one small step away from the size zeros then I can only think that it must be a good thing.
@Marissa Oh har har! Let me tell you, it takes a lot of effort to find nice togs to clothe my glamorous, size 18 arse. Either there's dirt-cheap Primark stuff, the dirty little reminder of how strongly obesity and poor health is correlated with poverty, or there's very pricy stuff, or in between there's the little fat-ghetto section in some high street shops selling clothes designed for a size 8 body scaled up a few inches. If you think that it's just as easy to find clothes for a size 18 body as for a size 12 one you're mistaken.
Laurie - I'm still chuckling at 'roll up and see the amazing meal-eating woman' and I agree with you about 80% of the way. Catwalk fashion and catwalk aesthetics bear little resemblance to the real world, but I still think that a cultural move towards regarding slightly more averagely shaped women as something more than subhuman helps. I know personally that I feel better about my own looks when I see other fat women photographed in ways that show them being sexy/loved/chic. I also agree that there is a more pressing need to break the strong, persistent link between attractiveness and social worth which is applied to women so dizzyingly more than to men, but some degree of that is inevitable. If we are going to respond to people based on attractiveness, as I believe we are socially conditioned to do, then widening the parameters of what is presented as an attractive is a first step.
hmm @ Nigella, If i was was single..................
Theres nothing wrong with curvy - personally, I feel size 14 is very attractive, 16 is passable (on some women) 18 plus is revolting.
See? most men don't lust after the size zero's (except the dead heads) but grosslt obese is another matter ...........
i was in a new bar that has just opened up by me the other day having a few pints of cider and to my amazement all the barmaids were young girls dressed up if you could call that in orange hot pants and tight tops showing there belly button, i felt quite offended and many men of all ages spent most of there time leering and making sexual remarks towards these young barmaids who looked like models,thing is if these girls were fat ugly munters would they of been employed as barmaids i dont think so,but i was so disgusted at the exploitation of these young women i walked out of this bar in protest.
Stuart, you say 'class rules' but please first define what you mean. It cannot be just income, as only 13% of UK taxpayers pay hi rate tax. Consequently 87% don't.
Only 7% of the population go to public school, so 93% don't.
3 million trade unionists vote Tory!
Is it having a 'good voice' well anyone can get trained! Is it education? My parents learned everything from the public library-FREE. And when the great revolution equates all our wages, who will get
'the Pretty Girl'?
Buckskins. Stuart.
These are not original thoughts.
I think you are under the misapprehension that they are.
They are the beliefs of bien-pensants.
But I am sure they keep you warm, like subcutaneous fat.
As Julie Burchill said only recently:
"Because girls are brought up judged on their looks more, we learn our league earlier, and we rarely make fools of ourselves by aiming above it...
"women just don't have that sort of Magic Mirror ("Who's the fairest of them all?") at home. And so many men, even ones with faces that surely only a blind mother could love (Chris Moyles, Chris Evans, Frankie Boyle), appear to have one, judging by the hilariously inappropriate way they assess women's appearances.
To me, one of the most interesting bits of biological research of the past few years proved that "most men find most women at least somewhat sexually attractive, whereas most women do not find most men sexually attractive at all". Wake up and smell the skinny latte, lads. See that girl you like?...– step away from the Dream Girl. For all you'll get from her is the chance to make yourself look like seven sorts of fool.
@ buckskins - "If i drive past Mcdonalds with the window down i gain 2lbs.."
Really? Are they shooting food at cars now?
Can't we find away to shoot food at hungry people?
A stealth banana perhaps?
http://clemthegem.wordpress.com/
Also Stuart....Dawn French and Ann Widdicombe? Really?
You're not sore are you that their famous and you're not?
Bless!
I dont mind being the baddie here so I am going to say what all you lefties are thinking (if have didn't have your heads so rammed up your PC backsides) kay is quite obviously a bit of a porker, isn't she - much like the fat lezzer she keeps quoting. Do you have any links to that BS biological research you mentioned kay? We have the highest rate of teenage pregnancy in Europe and my hard earned taxes are supporting the lives of single mothers who quite obviously did find the men who impregnated them sexually attractive !
If only there were more men like Stuart! It refreshing to hear of a man realizing that these women are being exploited (sadly often willingly) and actually taking a stand by walking out of the bar.
Like your comments Dylan!
That made me laugh Tory troll!
That was a quote from Julie Burchill Troll, don't know the genesis of it and I think you'll find it was a general comment about attractiveness - male and female not the way you have interpreted it.
You're very angry for a Tory - aren't you? according to the latest research you should be happy as larry ( see the lead new statesman article).
Dear Stuart - sorry if I offended you! I went to a dear old crap comprehensive so Toff is a bit wide of the mark.
Kate Moss was quoted as saying:
'It sounds really corny, but I think that if you’re beautiful inside, it shows on the outside for sure.
'You can be a pretty face, but if you’re not a nice person, it just doesn’t work. I’m not traditionally a beauty, but apparently people think I’m all right. If you’re a nice person it definitely helps".
Something there for all the beautiful people on here to think about I daresay.
*In regard to my comment above. I actually already live in a democratic society void of beauty, or at least any that entails much elegance - its called Scotland heheh!
Martin L - I liked the way you started to 'stutter-type' at the mere mention of Nigella - she seems to have have that effect on men.
The land itself is very pretty though! I'll always love the land.
You lost me with your opening sentence ... This fall ?? Surely you mean 'this autumn'?
Yep, It wasn’t my intention to come across as conceited or arrogant. I was talking about sexism and then mentioned something which doesn’t relate to the article, but has been bugging me for years. I was ranting about men, rather than praising my own attractiveness. Beautiful, average or ugly (if we can even think in such nonsensical terms), every woman should have the right to walk on the street and to be left alone by men. I was also highlighting that quite often it seems that men don’t really make a distinction between beautiful and ugly, they’ll harass any woman. Whereas the fashion industry has this clear-cut idea of what a woman’s body should look like.
As for my own appearance; I have a pretty face. Am I not allowed to say that? I also have a huge a bum, massive thighs with celluloid, a slightly flabby tummy, g-cup-igantic breasts and I’m quite hairy. I’m the kind girl who goes on absurd starvation diets, has days she feels too ugly to leave the house and constantly needs people telling her that she’s not fat but never believes it. There you go. I don’t think Buckskins would want me.
You can call me a hypocrite for stating that one can ignore this beauty ideal the fashion industry/the media shoves down your throat, when I obviously can’t...
I looked up that Julie Burchill and came across an article she wrote (about Madonna) for a trashy magazine. Hmm. How can you criticise “the fashion industry” when you write articles for magazines that mainly focus on beauty/fashion/diets??????????????????????????????????????????????????????I also didn’t understand her contempt for Madonna’s fitness. If Madonna wants to spend three hours a day at the gym then why shouldn’t she? The point is that women should not be pressurized into exercising that much, but that doesn’t mean that you should therefore look down on those who do. Anyway, Madonna needs to be fit, she’s a performer!!!
"You can't do a whole lot about how you are born, but you can do plenty about taking care of yourself."
I agree with that. No one needs to look like her: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4bSv1S-NdTo
But then there's chubby, overweight, fat, obese and morbidly obese. Big difference. Nothing wrong with being a little bit chubby, which is usually hereditary. I guess some people get fat more easily than others. I don't know, where do you draw the line?
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