Laurie Penny

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Airbrushing the truth about women

The equalities minister, Lynne Featherstone, wants us to embrace Mad Men’s curvy secretary Joan as a

Lynne Featherstone MP has given the impression that young women should aspire to look like saucy secretaries with accommodating attitudes to sexual harassment. Speaking in support of the Girl Guides' call for images of airbrushed models in magazines and on posters to be labelled clearly, the new equalities minister said that Christina Hendricks, the "curvy" actress who plays the sexually performative office manager Joan in the AMC series Mad Men, is an ideal antidote to the advertising industry's impossible standards of female emaciation.

It is likely that Featherstone's decision to tout Hendricks as a body-image role model was based on asking the girls in the office who their favourite curvy celebrities were. Unfortunately, following her comments, aspirational photos of Joan in a range of tight dresses have illustrated nearly every report on the anti-airbrushing campaign, sending a clear message about the limited ambitions of women's liberation today. We don't want young girls to starve themselves to resemble a modern advertising executive's wet dream, so we'll settle for encouraging them to emulate an advertising executive's wet dream from the 1960s.

Object of fantasy

Hendricks is beautiful, with creamy skin and cascades of auburn hair - but, at the UK average dress size of 14, she has been criticised by fashion insiders for being "too heavy". In Mattel's new line of Mad Men Barbies, the Joan doll appears substantially underweight, her lollipop head wobbling on spindly plastic limbs, shrinking Hendricks's curves into a body type that the toy company claims is more in keeping with "the aesthetic" of the show. Peggy Olson, a mousy-but-talented copywriter in Mad Men, has not been made into a doll, because frumpy, difficult and demanding women never get to be Barbie, whatever their accomplishments.

This isn't the only problem with the suggestion that Hendricks and her Mad Men alter ego are feminist role models. Joan may be curvy and confident, but that confidence comes from her skill at manipulating men sexually, embracing her role as an object of fantasy and encouraging the secretaries she supervises to dress prettily, stay quiet and accept sexual bullying as part of the job. Her male bosses consistently demean her intelligence. She is a victim of rape, and marries her rapist to avoid being left "on the shelf".

Sexism has long been the stock-in-trade of the advertising industry. Since the heyday of Madison Avenue, which Mad Men seeks to recall, advertisements have defined how we understand gender and power. The theorist Marshall McLuhan wrote in the 1960s that "ads are the cave art of the 20th century . . . the richest and most faithful reflections that any society ever made of its entire range of activities". Today, the industry has an income worth roughly £16bn in the UK alone, and the average consumer in Britain and America absorbs thousands of adverts every day.

According to the activist Jean Kilbourne, who created the Killing Us Softly films to expose advertising's harmful effect on women, "Advertising tells us, just as it did 30 years ago, that the most important thing about women is our appearance. We learn from an early age that we must spend enormous amounts of time, energy and, above all, money, striving to achieve an ideal of absolute flawlessness and feeling ashamed and guilty when we fail."

The ubiquity of images of airbrushed, idealised, half-naked female bodies affects the self-esteem of women and girls. In 1991, the US-based magazine Ad Age conceded that "sexism, sexual harassment and the cultural portrayal of women in advertising are inextricably linked".

Irritated by pesky accusations of sexism and body fascism, the advertising and fashion industries are engaged in a struggle to neutralise dissent. Mad Men is part of the cultural territory on which that struggle is taking place. What makes the show compelling is its exposition of how the ugly ideology of the golden age of advertising reflected real-life misogyny, as experienced by characters such as Joan or the frustrated housewife Betty Draper.

Wrong model, right idea

Today's fashion and advertising industries have decided to glamorise this narrative. Instead of recoiling in horror from Mad Men's depiction of the objectification and abuse that defined working women's lives within living memory, young women are shopping for circle skirts, ordering vodka Martinis and swallowing the line that Joan is a sassy, inspirational character who should be applauded for being allowed to appear on prime-time television weighing more than a packet of crisps.

In her mission to encourage advertisers to label airbrushed images of idealised female beauty, Featherstone has the wrong role model but the right idea. The Joan character is the living, breathing, breast-heaving embodiment of the idea that one cannot fight misogyny in the advertising industry. This campaign offers the bold and simple notion that one can, and that if the health and happiness of young women are at stake, the government should.

If we saw little but digitally manipulated, blandly sexualised images of young men everywhere around us, this campaign would be understood as urgently political, rather than merely frivolous. If it were young men who understood that, in order to get and keep a job, they had to pummel their bodies into a sick image of perfection and shrink every aspect of their personhood, if it were men whom advertisements were complicit in erasing, it would be easier to persuade Westminster that the advertising industry is not just a harmless function of the market, but a delivery system for sexism that can and should be monitored.

 

 

58 comments

jie4v7i14's picture

resistance, even, x2. oops.

jie4v7i14's picture

see if this will work, a photo of my marvellous daughter from Redhill, student, works 'part-time' in F&Bs there. Incredible person, and she is my daughter,
http://en-gb.facebook.com/profile/pic.php?oid=AAAAAwAgACAAAAAJPP299dLNCW...

ed's picture

Women maintaining particular 'desirable' looks in the past vs. the present has two different meanings.

In the past, before marital-rape laws, the right to vote, the right to work, etc, 'desirable' looks bespoke sexploitation of women. In the present, it is fast becoming a symbol of sexploitation of men. In other words, using the regrettable weakness of men for 'beauty' of a particular and promoted feature and form to dominate them.

Men, unfortunately, haven't changed much, but the elevation of women to their rightful equal status now places men at the disadvantage in a relationship of power for want of men being accustomed to thinking with their other head.

ed (a2ed.com)

Laurie Penny1's picture

Hi Hannah,

Thanks for responding! As you know I'm a huge huge fan of this campaign, I just think it's a shame that it's become associated with Joan/Christina Hendricks. How interesting that the question actually came from the journalist! That really does show the priorities of the press...

monkey_man's picture

Ehtchtee and Buckskins - can you get a room?

monkey_man's picture

I thought it was a great article, and the comments clarifying the original quote in the comments make it even better.

It's a farce that someone saying 'women come in all sizes' gets turned into someone trying to define a new archetype of body image. Plurality doesn't seem to be a concept that the press can deal with. But maybe the internet might change that for the better.

Des Demona's picture

@ Findiglay
''Please, many ugly, overweight women have powerful jobs these days''

Please show a little more respect to our MP's.

David Vinter's picture

Trouble is I know what sort of women I prefer. Now I'm only 5'8" so the new Miss England is a bit big for me.
But we have a 5'11" glorious blonde, and oh yes she is a first year undergraduate reading Law at Nottingham University. But then I went to Nottingham too. Photo in The
Independent.

Tofu Butcher's picture

Hey Laurie, is your NS profile pic photoshop'd at all? Just Curious.

You know Christina Henricks isn't a real red-head, right? And, perhaps ironically in the context of this article, hair product companies are having a field day showing women how to do their hair like Joan.

Also, the daily mash perhaps beat you to it:http://www.thedailymash.co.uk/news/society/women-should-be-hot,-slutty-secretaries-with-massive-boobs,-says-equalities-minister-201007272946/

Tofu Butcher's picture

Sorry, forgot to add that I agree with your analysis, although I think most people had a bit of a chuckle at Lynne Featherstone's expense over it. You're probably right about the asking around the office thing.
I have also discovered a new indicator of a boring dullard: Mention this contreversy or perhaps the American interviewer who turned into a gibbering idiot when thinking of Christina and the bath, and they simply reply "She is soooo hot", as if they have to educate me (one) in this fact. Also, they ride fixed gear bicycles.

Des Demona's picture

Mad Men is a terrific show, extraordinally well written. But in response to the fashion industry glamourising the well shown mysoginy and sexism and women rushing out to buy hooped skirts and voda martinis -how about if those women ... well ...don't?

I'm sure it's not compulsory. The advertising industry only works if you bother to pay attention to it.

jie4v7i14's picture

Nice pic above. Always liked a bit of Maureen O'Hara on a lady.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BsalGVMWhjc

primly stable's picture

Oh FFS... Lynne Featherstone never said that people should aspire to look like Christina Hendricks. The original Sunday Times interview that kicked off this whole thing is hidden behind the NI paywall so you'll have to take my word for it, but what she actually said was that women come in all shapes and sizes but we only ever see one shape and one size (stick thin and zero) on TV. She then said that she thought Christina Hendricks looked fabulous and bucked this trend, and that it would be good to see more people like her who don't fit the size zero stereotype so that girls have role models who don't all look the same. Nowhere in it does she say "she's the ideal role model and everyone should aspire to look like her", as she made clear on her blog:
http://www.lynnefeatherstone.org/2010/07/body-confidence-2.htm

The Irony Police's picture

"Unfortunately, following her comments, aspirational photos of Joan in a range of tight dresses have illustrated nearly every report on the anti-airbrushing campaign"

Nice to see New Statesman bucking the trend by illustrating this blog with an aspirational photo of Joan. Presumably the landscape photo format of the page design precluded the use of one where you could see her tight dress...

Euan McArthur's picture

Why should ever aspire to live up to fictions? Whether they are advertisements, TV shows etc. Some iconoclasm is in order if we are to unleash peoples' individuality

writeoff's picture

Good piece Laurie. There's an opportunity cost for fashion victims too, because all that mental energy invested in superficial crap instead of identifying and meeting personal needs not only prepares an acceptance of prejudice but positively reaffirms it. It’s a waste of life. I’ve met teens that are practically impossible to talk to because there is nothing in their heads. It’s frightening and depressing. But please don't forget there are young men who suffer from eating disorders and associated miseries too, albeit not in the same proportions. It is however, inescapable to an extent. 'Television's Ben Fogle' didn't get where he is just by having marginally more brains than a spaniel. Tall men earn more. Some of it is just animal instinct we can’t avoid, despite ourselves. In your piece on young tories you somewhat unnecessarily identified someone as prematurely balding you know..

Laurie Penny1's picture

Tofu Butcher: no, that pic of me isn't airbrushed. Not that you can really tell, as it's just a headshot. But it is a bit overexposed, which makes my skin look smoother. Does it matter?

Tofu Butcher's picture

No it doesn't matter, just wondered. Maybe "Overexposure" will be the next big thing. "Bleched Men", or something.

alittlebriton's picture

Er, how did someone's comments on body size equate to endorsing a character's choices on a TV show? I don't think that's what Lynne did. I mean, I agree with you on the point of 'we shouldn't necessarily choose Joan as a 21st Century role model' but that's not what anyone suggested. Ever. What she said was 'we should maybe celebrate curvy women and have them represented as well as the twiglets on TV'.

You have, however, got me righteously pissed off at Mattel for not creating a Peggy Barbie. Even if I think Peggy would not want a Barbie created for her, I think that girls should have a 'feminist for the time she lived in' role model. Stupid toy company. And Christina looks less gorgeous when skinnier as she was in Firefly. She has hips to kill for.

Kiri's picture

As primly stable noted, that's not quite what Lynne Featherstone was saying.

However, I think the emphasis should shift from finding "ideals" to encouraging young men and women to be the healthiest they can be, the best weight for their height and build, and eating balanced and well.

There are naturally skinny women, and those blessed with curves like Joan. And then a vast multitude in the middle. Pear shapes, apples - aspriring to look like Joan is just as unhealthy as apsiring to look like Kate Moss.

We need to say to young people that the best shape you can be is your own, when it is fully fit and healthy. There are no good and bad foods; you need moderation. There is no good and bad shape; you need to be healthy.

Language is also important. I don't think its helpful to vilify skinny people or call fat people curvy. (Not Joan, but Beth Ditto for example)

Ditch the adjectives and just focus on health.

New statesman's picture

It's all very well to be "curvy" if you happen to put on weight in a perfectly round bum and huge, yet perky breasts. Unfortunately the french fancies go straight to my upper arms and waist area. Oh well, I guess I'll just have to go for the anorexic heroin addict look. Maybe in another life I can be a Marilyn...

Alex's picture

Hey Laurie. Love your pieces, long time listener first time caller. But I think your article I think misses a bit of an analysis of Joan's character and rather allows an ideal type cipher to stand in place. So it falls into the trap of not actually looking at what Madmen says about particular issues, but, in an inverse of celebrating it, just criticises its ideological use, which I don't actually think is actually occurring. I mean is there any evidence that "young women are shopping for circle skirts, ordering vodka Martinis and swallowing the line that Joan is a sassy, inspirational character who should be applauded for being allowed to appear on prime-time television weighing more than a packet of crisps"? Surely if they have watched the series, they might well have come to quite a different conclusion. The point is that despite its supposed glamour, advertising is pretty ugly.

Joan's character is actually very complex not to mention melancholy, much like most of the characters in the show, its difficult to imagine anyone having actually watched the series thinking she was merely sassy and inspirational. Her struggle seems to want to become something more than a very efficient and skilled manager and office sex pot, which she clearly is, but people have simply put her into this box. There is also the issue of power in her character. For example, Joan is raped, by her husband, in a horrifying display of sexual punishment. For me anyway, it would be more interesting and important to discuss these kind of things, rather than a for and against her body shape, or for or against the ideological use of that body image - which I guess is kind of what you are saying anyway.

tamsinchan's picture

Am sick of ALL articles and reporting of this nature. When emphasis is FINALLY taken from how women look to how they ARE, this endless stream of debilitating, destabilising, destructive opinion on precisely what kind of 'ornament' a woman should 'aspire' to be will FINALLY become redundant. Take your focus off appearance entirely - maybe then women will feel more free and able to spend their every-dwindling levels time and energy on parts of themselves and aspects of their lives that actually MATTER.

Laurie Penny1's picture

-well precisely, Tamsin. That's why I want a Peggy doll.

Hank's picture

Overexposed? :D

Maybe so, originally, but it's definitely been smoothed a little too.

tamsinchan's picture

Laurie - I know you agree.

Laurie Penny1's picture

Oh for fuck's sake. Guys, PLEASE let's not make this about pictures of me or my appearance, we had enough of that in the comments last time. I promise I've never been airbrushed, to my knowledge, or tampered with a picture of myself. Actually for what it's worth, I consider that byline photo fairly unflattering.

tamsinchan's picture

And now, Laurie, I agree with you - barring the final sentence.

Hank's picture

Nothing wong with a bit of PS anyway is there?

Cheer up! http://stashbox.org/974530/crackasmile.png

Hannah's picture

Hi Laurie

Enjoyed the article - and I quite agree about the Joan character (thought I have only got as far as the end of series 2 of Mad Men!).

The reason as to why Lynne Featherstone chose to name Christina Hendricks is actually this - she didn't. Lynne said that we need to see a wider variety of body shapes and sizes portrayed positively in the media. The Sunday Times journalist who carried out the interview then asked Lynne what she thought of Christina Hendricks, and Lynne said she thought she was a good example of someone who didn't fit with the current trend towards extreme thinness. Then of course, this was made to be the main point of the article, and as you rightly point out, every other media outlet used it as a good excuse to print pictures of an attractive woman. I certainly don't think Lynne was thinking of Joan's character at the time.

cheers

Hannah
www.campaignforbodyconfidence.org.uk

woodscolt's picture

Instead of recoiling in horror fRom Mad Men's depiction of the objectification and abuse that defined working women's lives within living memory, young women are shopping for circle skirts, ordering vodka Martinis and swallowing the line that Joan is a sassy, inspirational character

It's not possible to wear a circle skirt, drink martinis, and see Joan as a sassy character in the context of the show while simultaneously understanding that Mad Men exposes some of the ways in which misogyny functions? Don't be so ridiculously patronising.

Laurie Penny1's picture

...also that most of the articles that have covered this go 'nyer nyer they picked Joan from Mad Men so this campaign is obviously stupid'. They couldn't be more wrong...

jie4v7i14's picture

Further to my Maureen O'Hara clip above, the other side of the coin, that ran after her, cowboys, yes, godamn yank cowboys,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YcuMPHfsIgk

jie4v7i14's picture

monkey_man, he's not my type....

and I'll have a pair of sunglasses please. 15 bucks? - a steal.

jie4v7i14's picture

More Laurel and Hardy, to get the girls to get their hankies out and start blubbering...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fzzk2zXaJ5A

jie4v7i14's picture

Human League's, from Sheffield, version of the path of least resitance in human thought and actions from the late 1970s,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o6QLi2agHKU

tiacchyst's picture

Laurie darlin, I think you are a little jealous of pretty women. You don’t have to be. The biggest turn on for most guys is intelligence in a woman. A guy will never admit that to another guy. Looks depart soon enough, your intellect will be around until your teeth fall out. With American women that is. I forgot you’re British. What’s with you Brits and toothpaste anyway?

tiacchyst's picture

"EhtchTee
12 August 2010 at 12:27
Further to my Maureen O'Hara clip above, the other side of the coin, that ran after her, cowboys, yes, godamn yank cowboys,"

Women want real men. Eat your heart out and happy trails.

Buckskin's stallion leaves a big pile of steaming dung for the Brit dudes to sniff up.
((OO))

Clem the Gem's picture

Haven't watched the whole series, but from what I have seen, Mad Men does seem to be fairly sharp in its nailing of those 1950s attitudes to gender. The men come off as stunted emotionally, and the women as pretty much unsatisfied. Its the flip side to all the Rat pack nostalgia of a few years ago .

What women want is a question that men never seem to ask in MM.

I think that Featherstones comments were once again another 90s style feminist response to a serious issue. And 90s style feminism has never succesfully addressed anything, other than the price of shoes.

tmsh's picture

> In her mission to encourage advertisers to label airbrushed images of idealised female beauty, Featherstone has the wrong role model but the right idea. The Joan character is the living, breathing, breast-heaving embodiment of the idea that one cannot fight misogyny in the advertising industry. This campaign offers the bold and simple notion that one can, and that if the health and happiness of young women are at stake, the government should.

I had to read the article closely and this passage in particular, before I realized that actually I agree with it very much. But I think it may be worth following up with the idea that we might use MAD MEN to figure out what minefields there are to navigate in formulating clear role models. MAD MEN does a very good job of showing what American and Western societies are fabricated on. Too good, too empathetic, too attractive, perhaps, to the point where we confuse their etiologies with a sources of inspiration.

But I think the point of MAD MEN is to be inspired not to make certain mistakes. And to question assumptions. But it can be powerful in that it conveys what other alternatives there are at any given historical moment. So I don't know that we need to reject MAD MEN outright. Just the mistakes which it exposes which society is built on.

So what are good sources for role models for young women? I would say something like precisely the roles in MAD MEN or any cogent history -- without their mistakes. They are 'what we know', etc.

sianushka's picture

laurie i agree with you but i have to stand up for lynne featherstone as i feel a bit sorry about how her comments were taken out of context.

she did an interview where she talked about the importance of having a range of images of a range of women - not the same old white, skinny woman we have in advertising at the moment.

the interviewer then said, someone like CH and she said yes. she never said women should aspire to look like CH.

i don't believe we should have women who are role models because of how they look. our role models should be women who are strong, talented, inspiring. whatever their body shape.

it pisses me off that the very valid debate about body image, media imagery, role models and women's choices has turned into a discussion about whether or not LF was right to cite CH as an example, when she didn't. it's typical media activity - lets divert the criticism of our industry by focussing on a totally different story.

jie4v7i14's picture

Buckskins, the 'ironic' point is that neither Laurel nor Hardy was trying to play John Wayne, more like the opposite to 'blondie' in the fistfull of dollars movie. Yeh, punk, with Clint the Eastwood, past mayor of Carmel, California. Yeh, Buckskins.

sianushka's picture

crabstix

i think you find a lot of feminists do care about the growing objectification of men. lets nip it in the bud now before men are put under the frankly massive pressure women are under every day. but lets know whine what about teh menz. i hate this either/or BS

also, i love mad men and i think it is more complex than the idea that we see joan as an aspirational sex pot. she's a very interesting character who is trapped in this world where a woman's currency is her sexuality, not her brains. the rape scene is absolutely horrific, and her fiance is violating her to try and control her and punish her for her sexual experience. it's really horrible, and she is so worried about getting older and alone, and so seduced by the idea of marriage, she does nothing about it. it reminds us how recently rape within marriage ws legal.
i don't think any of the characters are cut outs, and it isn't the show's fault that the media have spent most their pen ink dribbling over joan and betty.

jie4v7i14's picture

oops sorry Buckskins, and Clint, it was the Good, Bad and the Ugly, punk.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1hYV-JSjpyU

tiacchyst's picture

I don't watch cartoons sir. Now lets get back to Laurie's wonderful article.

jie4v7i14's picture

Can't watch the original Spaggetti Western? You're showing youself up now, sir, if I may point out, Sir Buckskins.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lOXYWEB7LgA

katelate's picture

Good article. Shame about the missing-the-point fest going on in the comments.

It sounds like what the Minister said might have been manipulated, but the point remains, why must there be this incessant focus on women's bodies and looks? Why do we need body ideals to look up to? There is no such debate about what is a healthy shape for men and who is a healthy role model for men, mean are allowed to get on with the business of looking after themselves. It is just another not so subtle means of control.

crabstix's picture

Does anyone know if David Beckhams abs or pouch were photoshopped?

Does anyone care at all that these unrealistic body images are being touted to young and not so young men, tortured by their lack of fitness and propensity to ten bellies?

tiacchyst's picture

Ehtch Tee the difference between Mr. Eastwood and I is that he is the Hollywood version, and I am the real thing. Albeit a hobby rancher. (With a marvelous tax dodge) Now that we have that cleared up. Let’s do justice to Laurie’s hard and talented work.

jie4v7i14's picture

well get on your horse and drink your milk.

Wyoming? Montana?, no Kentucky?

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