With both US and Russian bases, Kyrgyzstan is caught in the middle of a battle for military dominance.
Kyrgyzstan in central Asia is the only country in the world to host both US and Russian military bases. So when, earlier this month, Vladimir Putin and George Bush exchanged blows not thrown since the Cold War, a US-Russian battle for military presence reached fever pitch in the former Soviet republic.
The US has had an airbase near the capital Bishkek since 2001, to launch operations in Afghanistan. Two years later Russia built its own, not 60km away.
On 6 June this year, Russia's air force command announced it would send extra planes and border protection to Kyrgyzstan in response to US plans to deploy a missile shield in the Czech Republic. The day before, Robert Gates, the US defence secretary, arrived in Bishkek to placate the Kyrgyz government and save his troops from eviction.
Kyrgyzstan has grown increasingly hostile to the US military since a US serviceman shot dead an airport worker last December. Truck driver Alexander Ivanov was gunned down by Zachary Hatfield when he pulled up to a security checkpoint allegedly wielding a knife.
Demands for Hatfield to be stripped of diplomatic immunity and tried have been incessant since March. Ivanov's widow was offered $1,000 in compensation and the family-oriented country hit back in revulsion.
The Kyrgyz president, Kurmanbek Bakiyev, walked swiftly past the "Yankee go home" posters at the US embassy and agreed to let the 1,200 US troops stay where they are for now. Moscow has lost one move in this chess game.
Putin has steadily pressured the "Stans" to turn away from the US and the Kremlin had been expecting Bakiyev to announce Kyrgyzstan's compliance this summer. But the Russian base pays neither rent nor landing and take-off fees, while the US gives more than $17.4m a year and an extra $150m in aid.
Nonetheless, Russia maintains huge dominance over the region. Rich in natural resources, central Asia quenches Russia's thirst for uranium, gas and oil and reinforces its near monopoly on the transport of gas from the region, which is a major concern to Europe and the US. Central Asia shares a history, language and culture with Russia, whereas the ideology of the west doesn't fit. With the exception of Bakiyev, the region's leaders baulk at the mention of human rights for democracy.
In 2005, neighbouring Uzbekistan ejected Washington from what the Pentagon describes as "an undeniably critical" air base at Karshi-Khanabad. Russia swooped in and signed a solid military alliance pledging full backup. Kyrgyzstan is now Washington's main hope for a successful offensive in Afghanistan. "Kyrgyzstan is playing a major part in the collective effort of more than 40 countries against international terrorism," Gates said, trying to flatter the Kyrgyz president.
But the airmen themselves are like a phantom in Bishkek. The Metro American bar hadn't seen any for almost a year until a lightweight from Oklahoma was brought in to fight the Kyrgyz national boxing champion last month. "They're both dead little but it's a fair fight," says the match host. "Poor Yank hasn't got a chance though."
After punching through 12 rounds, breathing in thick smoke from Marlboro Lights mixed in with Black Russian Sobranies, the home favourite predictably walked away with the $100 prize.
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