Women find especially alluring the full aroma of apricots and armpits

Another trip to the supermarket: this time to Sainsbury's, the favourite of the new Labour elites, who have scattered titles over the Sainsbury family, married eagerly into it and even appointed its head as a government minister. A slovenly picture of Lord Sainsbury is now on display at the National Portrait Gallery, and it will not be long before the House of Sainsbury is proposed as a modernising replacement to the House of Windsor.

Meanwhile, the supermarket has issued its third successive profits warning, and the person responsible is steeling himself for the enormous bonus that will be inflicted on him as he begs to retire. British shoppers, it seems, are deserting their once favourite supermarket. The reason is not that they have come round to the view that supermarkets are a social and ecological catastrophe, but that they have taken up with the competition. This is a shame because - new Labour image aside - Sainsbury's is really rather inoffensive, not given to vast out-of-town developments, and fairly sober in its use of colours and signs; occasionally harmonising with its urban surroundings and not averse to selling local food from eco-friendly sources.

The wine shelves are reassuring, too, with cheap and friendly products from around the globe, and fine wines that are expertly chosen. Moreover, the special offers are wide-ranging and seriously attractive, with prices as low as £2.99 for Californian white Zinfandel. Currently on offer is a real Zinfandel from 2001, made from old vines grown by Lodi at Ravenswood in the Sonoma Valley. This is an amazing wine: dark, powerful, with the full aroma of apricots and armpits that women find especially alluring - and at £5.99 (until 9 November) a boost to the hormones that we can all afford.

Rose enthusiasts will enjoy the La Palma from Chile: a Merlot-Cabernet blend from 2004, which is fresh enough to enjoy as an aperitif and sufficiently full to accompany a meal. Currently on offer at £3.49, this could bring peace even to the most economical household. A glass stirred into his oats caused Sam the horse to take on the hedge behind our house, managing what would have been a faultless jump had he remembered the ditch on the other side. Still, we survived, and were able to comfort ourselves that evening with one of Sainsbury's fine wines, a Chateau La Vieille Cure from 1999 (the 2000 is currently on offer at £10.99). This claret from Fronsac shows all the virtues of that region: deep colour, fine mineral backbone and a subtle damson aroma that gradually emerges in the glass.

Finally, for Rioja enthusiasts, a special treat: the Faustino Gran Reserva, on sale at £13.99: a rich, smooth, creamy concoction like a duenna's kiss. Sam the horse didn't get a drop of this one.

Post your comment

Please note: you will need to login or register before you can comment on the website