Drink - Victoria Moore falls in love with Riesling
Published 24 March 2003
Although unpopular, Riesling has its time and place: alone before dinner
What is it with Riesling? Ask a wine writer for their favourite grape and they always bore on about how underrated it is. Jancis Robinson and Hugh Johnson describe Riesling thus: "Powerfully scented, reflecting minerals, flowers, lime and honey - it can take on kerosene-like compounds."
Put like that, it might not sound terribly attractive - on a par with a bunch of clashing chrysanthemums from the petrol station. German wines, contrary to current fashion, tend not to be very dry (how things have changed since the glory days when Queen Victoria popularised hock).
I also have problems with Riesling. Yes, I can see how delicious it is. I savour the lime and petrol flavours - particularly in its botrytised form. Yet not only does there never seem to be a moment when a glass might actually be called for, I cannot imagine inflicting it on anyone. I discussed this with my friend Sarah, and she gave me some Peak Riesling, Clare Valley 2001 (Adnams, £6.95), saying she found it an excellent starter Riesling. It was good and dry with a clean, limey aroma.
Still, there was the problem of what to eat. I had two bottles in my fridge, both from Adnams, when I read a piece in the New York Times by Amanda Hesser. "You bought the wine," it was titled. "Now what's for dinner?" "Eating a ham sandwich with Riesling may not do it justice," writes Hesser. According to her, orange peel will underline the citrus in the wine while spices and aromatics, particularly if you caramelise the meat, "diminish any cloying notes".
I had my mother (an excellent home cook), my boyfriend (growing ever more astute in his appreciation of wine) and my cousin (who likes difficult flavours) to dinner. Mum refused to attempt Hesser's recipes, so we settled on pork loin marinated in orange juice with soy sauce. "Ugh!" shouted my cousin on tasting the Maximin Grunhauser Herrenberg Riesling, von Schubert 1999 Ruwer (£9.95). "That's a £10 bottle of wine," I shrieked, affronted. "And it's very good."
She said she hadn't been ready for the sweetness. This is a medium wine with enchanting body and burgeoning richness and complexity whose acidity balances its sugar. It didn't go down well. The Dr L Riesling, 2001 QbA Mosel (£6.50) - a renowned producer - was received a little better on account of its cleaner flavours. But my mum and cousin remained generally unmoved. My boyfriend thought both "a little too flowery for me but very nice with the right food". Clearly, our orange pork did not have enough spice.
The wines are still in my fridge. I have a single delicious, fluttery glass each night. No one else does. What will make Riesling more popular? Search me.
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