Food - Bee Wilson loves fine swine
Many things have been picked or burned to death by Quentin Tarantino: diners, Pop Tarts, Madonna songs, foot massages and hamburgers. But of all the things to have suffered at his hands - including that cop's ear in Reservoir Dogs - the most innocent victim has been the reputation of the poor maligned pig. When Samuel L Jackson gave his Pulp Fiction speech about pigs being filthy animals, a whole new generation learnt to look on charcuterie with suspicion.
The pig? A filthy animal? Not only is the hog an intelligent beast, as every schoolchild knows, but it also abhors slovenliness. The pigsty, to which so many teenage bedrooms are compared, would put some designer bathrooms to shame. Tom Stobart remarks that the mud on wild pigs should be seen as "a mud-pack for beauty treatment", not muck. Left to their own devices, pigs will divide up their quarters into a living area, an eating area and a dung area. A German pig farmer was even inspired by his herd's fastidiousness to arrange a flushing loo and power shower for his pigs. But then, the Germans earnestly adore their swine. Whereas "pork' is used derogatively to imply chubbiness or deceit, Schwein means "good luck".
The trouble with porcine food is not that it is dirty, but that it is cleansed of all flavour by modern breeding and feeding. Watery white fluid in the bacon pan is the result of polyphosphates in the pigs' feed, which makes them gain weight by absorbing water. Swine are torn from their mothers at three weeks then fattened up in cramped conditions that make these bred-for-leanness monsters so traumatised that they often have to be dosed with anti-stress drugs. You can almost taste the misery in the dry flesh.
There are, however, still some farms breeding pigs that are as happy as they are clean. The Horse & Gate farm at Witcham Toll, Ely, raises Gloucester Old Spots and Tamworth pigs on a simple organic diet of barley, oats and protein. After an almost mystical gestation period of three months, three weeks and three days, the piglets stay with their mothers for two months, roaming in small groups thereafter. At six months old, they are killed and cut into delicious chops, legs, ribs, hams, shoulders and so on. Their lives are not in vain: the flavour and texture is incomparable.
In my current mood of piggy mania, I ordered 9kg of mixed pork from the Horse & Gate (a special offer at £50), some extra livers, bacon and belly (for terrines) and a few trotters (only 30 pence each) for good measure. When it arrived, a symphony of pinks, buffs and dark purple, I was overwhelmed. What a porker I felt. Once most of the swag was stashed in the freezer, though, I was glad of the versatile meat. Flattened pork chops with rosemary and garlic; proper sausages with scrambled eggs and mushrooms; casseroled pork with small black olives; sausage sauce for penne, with dried chilli, oregano, tomatoes and a little cream; roast leg with amber-crisp, bubbling crackling. The most porky dish I have made so far is this terrine, which slices as cleanly as a cop's ear, without any of the screaming.
For the Horse & Gate farm's pork, call 01353 778723 or e-mail orders to naturally.yours@demon.co.uk. Delivery is free in East Anglia, and by courier elsewhere
Pork terrine
Preheat oven to 150 C (gas mark 2). Process together 300g pig's liver, 500g belly pork and 500g pork mince. Dice 50g streaky bacon and mix in along with 3 tbsp brandy, 1.5 glass white wine and these seasonings: a clove of garlic crushed with 8 peppercorns, 6 juniper berries, and salt. Pack into a large terrine, cover with slices of trimmed streaky bacon and cook in a bain-marie for 1-1.5 hours until coming away at the sides. When cool, cover with greaseproof paper and weight, and leave in the fridge until the jelly is set. Best after 24 hours, with tomatoes, cornichons and bread.
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